This informaction is collected from
internet after searching & surfing thousands of sites related to
Toyota landcrusier then create this hard to find informaction in this
Data-Base by SUNDEEP MALIK for his knowlizebase as his
hobby Every one can use it.
my link -
malik4xxx@gmail.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
=================
1.0 Disclaimer
2.0 The History of Toyota
3.0 Introduction
4.0 Body Styles
4.1 Availability
(Model Year)
4.2 Specifications
4.3 Stock Curb
Weights (lbs)
5.0 Engines
5.1 Gas Engines
5.2 Diesel Engines
5.3 Other Engine
Suppliers
5.4 Engine
Specifications
5.5 Availability
(Model Year)
6.0 Engine/Chassis
Combinations (Production Year)
6.1 Selected Country
Engine/Chassis Sales Figures (Model Year)
7.0 Performance/Fuel
Economy
8.0 Transmissions &
Transfer Cases
8.1 Transmission &
Transfer Case Ratios (All :1)
9.0 Axles
9.1 Axle Codes
10.0 Production Codes
11.0 Body Colour Codes
12.0 Decoding Your ID
Plates
13.0 40 Series Specific
Info
13.1 Production
Timeline (US/Canada)
13.2 More 40
Production Info
14.0 55 Series Specific
Info
14.1 Production
Timeline (US/Canada)
14.2 More 55
Production Info
15.0 60 Series Specific
Info
15.1 Production Info
16.0 80 Series Specific
Info
16.1 Full Time 4WD
16.2 Locking
Differentials
17.0 Buying/Inspecting a
Land Cruiser
17.1 Engine
17.1.1 Diesel
Engine
17.1.2 Gas
Engine
17.2 Cooling System
17.3 Electrical
17.4
Transmission/Transfer
17.5 Driveshafts
17.6 Rear Axle
17.7 Front Axle
17.8 Steering
17.9 Brakes
17.10 Suspension
17.11 Body
17.12 Frame
17.13 Inspection
Checklist
18.0 Drivetrain Swaps
18.1 Non-Toyota
Equipment
18.2 Diesel Engine
Swaps
18.2.1 Isuzu
Engine Specs
18.2.2 Cummins
Engine Specs
18.2.3 GM
Diesel Engine
18.2.3.1
GM Engine Specs
18.2.3.2
GM Diesel Swap Specifics
18.2.4 Nissan
Diesel Specs
18.3 Gas Engine
Conversions
18.3.1 GM
Engine Specs
18.3.2 Ford
Engine Specs
18.4 Transmission
Swaps
18.5 Transfer
Case/Axle Swaps
19.0 Maintenance and
Modifications
19.1 Aluminum Tubs -
Rob Mullen
19.2 Breather
Relocation - Rob Mullen
19.3 G.M. HEI
distributors for F/2F Motors - David Dannenberg
19.4 Glow Plugs -
Rob Mullen
19.5 Owner's Manual
Maintenance Schedules - Toyota
19.5.1 Gas
Powered Vehicles (2F-1983)
19.5.2 Diesel
Powered Vehicles (B-1978)
19.5.3 Diesel
Powered Vehicles (3B-1983)
19.6 Ride Harshness
- Rob Mullen
19.7 Saginaw Power
Steering Conversion - Park Owens
19.8 Shackle
Reversals - Rob Mullen
19.9 Silicon Clutch
Diagnosis - John Barron
19.10 Steering
Wandering - Rob Mullen
19.11 Spring Over
Conversions - John Barron
19.12 Transmission
and Transfer Removal Tips - Rob Mullen
19.13 V8J40 Cooling
Tips - Fred Welland
19.14 Which Wheels
Work? - Rob Mullen
20.0 Land Cruiser Clubs
20.1 North America
20.2 Australia
20.3 Netherlands
21.0 Parts Suppliers
21.1 North America
21.2 Australia
1.0 Disclaimer
==============
Well, here goes. I've
decided to bite the bullet The information in this knowlize
base to be used AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am not responsible for any
death/dismemberment/ grief/increase of libido that any errors or
misinformation cause you! Also
Anything that looks wrong to you.
Sugessaion,s are welcomed
my mail - malik4xxx@gmail.com
malik4xxx@yahoo.co.in
2.0 The History of Toyota
=========================
NOTE: This section is
responsible for most of the delay in getting this version
of the FAQ out for two
reasons. First off, there is some very interesting
research I was hoping to
include, but it didn't come together the way I'd hoped.
The other reason is that
some of the information is not as well referenced as it
should be (I only have
secondary references for the Jeep stuff) If you feel
that I've somehow slighted
you by missing a reference, don't worry, I'm working
on them. You can speed
things up by dropping me a line. On with the show...
Trucks played a pivotal
role in the history of the Toyota Motor Company. In
most cases, the Land
Cruiser was the vehicle that carried the Toyota banner
into new markets.
However, a complete history of Toyota requires a look at
the man whos company
provided the capital and inital production facilities
necessary for the founding
of the Toyota Motor Company.
Sakichi Toyoda was born in
1867 in Yamaguchi, Japan. He had dedicated his
life to the invention of
an automatic textile loom. In 1907, he formed
Toyoda's Loom works, a
company that by 1930 had grown into the Toyoda
Automatic Loom Works
(TALW).
Although he shared the
inventiveness of his father, Kiichiro Toyoda did not
share the fascination with
looms. Instead Kiichiro dreamed of building
automobiles. In March
1930, he began to build a prototype engine in a corner
of the Toyoda Automatic
Loom Works factory. By January 29, 1934, Kiichiro had
made enough progress with
his engine design that TALW established an
Automobile Department.
The first engine, a 3.4l I6 dubbed the Type A was
completed in September
1934. The first complete automobile prototype, the
Model A1 was completed in
May 1935.
Due to restrictions on the
domestic automobile industry, Kiichiro decided that
would be better to focus
on the production of trucks. As a result, the first
prototype Toyota truck,
the Model G1 was completed on August 25, 1935.
In July 1936, it was
decided that the cars produced by TALW would be marketed
under the name "Toyota."
The name was chosen because it sounded better than
Toyoda, the katakana
characters used to represent it were more asthetically
pleasing and consisted of
eight strokes, a lucky number, and because the
character was similar to
the one representing growth. The Toyota Motor Co.,
Ltd. (TMC) was formed on
August 28, 1937.
The Koromo Plant was
officially opened in November of 1938. This plant would
later become known as the
Honsha Plant--the site of LandCruiser Production. The
first vehicle produced at
the new factory was the Model BM truck. A version of
the 75hp engine used in
this vehicle was to become the first engine in a Land
Cruiser.
In 1941, the Japanese
government instructed Toyota to produce a small, easily
manoueverable truck that
could be used in the expansion of their Pacific empire.
In response, Toyota
delivered prototypes of the 2-ton AK-10 in 1942.
Unfortunately, it proved
too cumbersome so production of light transport trucks
was left to Nissan. No
examples or photographs of the AK-10 vehicle exist. The
only evidence of the AK-10
is a rough sketch. The truck featured an upright
front grille, flat fenders
that angled down and back like the FJ40, and
headlights that mounted
above the fenders on either side of the radiator. It
had a folding windshield,
and the cowl comes straight down to the floor. The
rear tub does not exist as
such, instead, there is more of a stake-sided bed.
The spare tire stands
vertically on the inside of the back wall of the bed on
the driver's side. The
pumpkins have the familiar offset and look to be
similar in design to the
Land Cruiser 9.5" and have a 6 wheel-stud pattern.
Most of the driveline of
the truck was from the model BM truck.
The AK-10 arrived 1 year
after the initial MA1 General Purpose was delivered
to the U.S. Military by
Willys-Overland. The first shipment of MB "Jeeps"
didn't arrive in the
Pacific until 1943. As a result, it was highly unlikely
that Toyota had seen a
Jeep, never mind copied one. The Land Rover Series I
did not arrive on the
scene until 1949 so any influence on the precursor to
the Land Cruiser is
impossible.
TMC struggled throughout
World War II. It was conscripted into making aircraft
engines and tried to
continue producing trucks with what little raw materials
were available. After
Japan's surrender in 1945, Toyota was allowed to begin
production of trucks to
aid in the rebuilding of Japan. By 1947, production
had begun on the Model BM
truck and the Model SB small truck.
In 1950, the U.S. military
filed a special procurement order for 1000 4wd
vehicles to be used in the
Korean War. Unfortunately, at this time, I am
unfamiliar with what the
exact terms of the procurement order were. However,
here are the requirements
that led to the Willys-Overland MA1:
1. It must have a load
capacity of 600 pounds
2. The wheelbase must be
under 75 inches
3. The height must be
under 36 inches
4. The engine must run
smoothly from three to fifty miles per hour
5. It must have a
rectangular shaped body
6. It must have a two
speed transfer case with four wheel drive
7. It must have a
windshield that folds down
8. It must include three
bucket seats
9. It must have blackout
and driving lights
10. Gross vehicle weight
must be under 1200 pounds (Conley 1981, 20)
Toyota responded with a
prototype of the Model BJ on August 1, 1951. Its
characteristics were as
follows:
1. Load capacity?
Unknown
2. 94" wheelbase
3. Height? Unknown
4. Engine runs smoothly
from three to fifty miles per hour
5. Rectangular shaped
body
6. Single speed
transfer-case
7. Folding windshield
8. 2 bucket seets and
rear bench
9. No blackout lights
10. Gross vehicle weight
of ~3000lbs.
There is very little
correlation, considering the BJ has been accused by some
to be a copy of the Jeep.
The specifications are different because a
completely different
philosophy was employed in the design of the BJ. The
Willys had been designed
to be as light as possible, using an engine with
roots in automobiles.
Because of the low torque characteristics of the
engine, a two-speed
transfer case with extra gear reduction was used to allow
passage over rough
terrain. The BJ, on the other hand, was created using
components from 2 and 4
ton trucks. The torque from the 6-cylinder B-85
engine did not require the
extra gear reduction. Instead a 4 speed
transmission with a 5.53:1
first gear was employed to get a little more low-
end grunt.
The vehicle was dubbed the
"Toyota Jeep," possibly as a result of the wording
of the U.S. Army's
procurement order. Fortunately, the right to the "Jeep"
name was owned by Willys
who forced Toyota to choose another name. On June
24, 1954, the name "Land
Cruiser" was chosen.
In 1954, the first Land
Cruisers were exported to Pakistan.
In 1955, 23 Land Cruisers
were exported to Saudi Arabia. The vehicles proved
to be wildly popular and
exports grew steadily.
On Feb 21, 1956, the first
two Land Cruisers were exported to Venezuela.
These were quickly
followed exports to Burma, Malaysia, and Puerto Rico.
Toyota entered the African
market by sending Crowns and Land Cruisers to
Ethiopia. Because
marketing proved difficult with the large number of
languages spoken in
Africa, Toyota was forced to adopt the sales technique of
driving a sample vehicle
all over Africa and dealing direct with potential
purchasers.
The U.S.A. was somewhat
different in that in 1957, it received two Crowns
before any Land Cruisers.
However, the Crowns were found to perform poorly at
the higher speeds of
American Interstates. Toyota was forced to halt
passenger car importing in
1960, leaving only the Land Cruiser to bear the
company's name in the
United States.
Toyota did not make the
same mistake in Australia. The first vehicles sent
there were Land Cruisers.
They arrived in July 1959, and were marketed by
Theiss Sales as commercial
vehicles.
Toyota began to market the
Model DA60 truck, its first powered by a diesel
engine, in March 1957.
However, brand loyalty was strong in Japan so Toyota
was forced to establish
links to Hino Motors, a diesel truck manufacturer.
Hino would later provide
the B and H series diesel engines used in Land
Cruisers.
In May, 1959, Toyota do
Brasil began Land Cruiser assembly in Brazil. This
was the first case of
knock-down kits being assembled outside Japan. Land
Cruiser assembly started
in 1963 in Venezuela, 1970 in Indonesia and Pakistan
(although Pakistanni
production was terminated in 1986), and 1977 in Kenya,
and 1982 in Bangladesh.
Toyota's first exports to
Europe were to Denmark, in 1964. That was quickly
followed by exports to
Finland, the Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland, Great
Britain, France, Italy,
Austria, Greece, and finally, Germany.
It was not until 1964 that
Toyota came to Canada. The first vehicles imported
were the Crown, Land
Cruiser, and Publica. The Publica proved to be
unsuitable for the
Canadian climate and was quickly withdrawn; however, by
1971, largely on the
strength of Land Cruiser sales, Toyota had become the
number one import brand in
Canada.
Throughout the history of
Toyota, it was the Land Cruiser that led the way
into new export markets
and proved Toyota toughness.
3.0 Introduction
================
Land Cruisers models are
identified by an alphanumeric code. The code
consists of the engine
series designation letter(s) and the frame desgination
number separated by a the
letter "J." For example a 2 door with short wheel
base and a 2F gasoline
engine would be a FJ40. There are also auxilliary
codes that follow the main
model code and give further information about the
vehicle. For instance,
the code FJ40LV-KCW is the vehicle mentioned above
produced between 01/75 and
07/80 with left hand drive, 4 Speed Transmission,
Hardtop, Rear "ambulance"
doors, and no roll bar produced for the European
market. The extra codes
are necessary because of the huge number of
variations of each vehicle
offered world-wide. There were 2500 versions of
the 60 series alone. All
the North American & most Australian Codes are
described later in the
FAQ. The only exception to the naming convention is
the 1951 BJ.
4.0 Body Styles
===============
All Land Cruiser bodies
(Except the Bundera and the 45 Wagon) are made by
Araco (Formerly Arakawa),
a division of Toyota. Araco also manufactures the
interiors for Land
Cruisers, Lexuses, and other Toyota cars and trucks.
Toyota manufactures the
Bundera/LandCruiser II, and Gifu Body manufactured the
45 Wagon. The remainder
of the vehicle (except in some cases the engines) is
manufactured at Toyota's
Honsya plant (Factory code A11)
SERIES DESCRIPTION
AK-10 Predecessor to the
Land Cruiser
BJ Very First Land
Cruiser! Flat fenders, round rear wheel wells,
(B-85) vertical front
grille
25 Looks more like 40
series except with no turn signals on the fenders
round rear wheel wells
and no headlight bezel
25 P Pickup version of
above
28 Similar to above
with a longer wheelbase
28 V Wagon version of
above
35 Very similar to a
25
38 Wagon
40 2 Door with
removable hard/soft top, folding windshield
41 Same as above
42 Essentially
identical to 40 series
43 V Slightly Longer
40.
43 W 2 Door version of
the 45 Wagon
44 2 Door even longer
wheelbase 40 (40 sized side windows followed by
smaller ones
45 C Cab & Chassis
L Pick-up with
square bed with tie-down loops on sides, removable
hard/soft top
S Pick-up with
rounded bed with bevel on top rim like a 40.
Had fixed hardtop until
approx 1964 then removable hardtop
W 4 door 40 series,
permanent top.
T VERY long 2 door
40 with 2 sets of 40 style side windows on HT
46 Same as 45T except
with 5 speed transmission & upgraded frame
47 V VERY long 2 door
with 2 sets of 40 style side windows on HT
47 L Identical to 45
Series except with H series engine
47 C Cab & Chassis
50 Brazillian made
Bandierante soft top similar to 40
50 V Bandierante hard top
similar to 40
50 VB Bandierante similar
to 43
55 P2BL Bardierante
extra-cab pickup. Similar to 45 series
55 B Bandierante short
bed pickup similar to 45 series
55 BL Bandierante long
bed pickup
55 Wagon with
narrower appearance than 40 series. Front grille looks
like <
60 Square bodied
wagon with a pair of round headlights
61 Similar to above
except with a turbo
62 Square bodied
wagon with 2 pairs of rectangular headlights
70 Square body 2 door
with non-removable doors/hard top, sloping
windshield and
fenders that are a cross of a 40 and a 60.
70 LD Light Duty (Called
"Bundera" in Australia) - 70 Series with 2L-T diesel
or 22R gas engine,
lighter axles used in the pickup (with the 8" ring
gear), removable
hard/soft top, and coil springs.
Bundera means
"Rock Wallaby" in an aboriginal language
71 Essentially
identical to the 70 series
71 LD Similar to 70
series except with squarer front end and smaller front
fenders
73 Like 70 series
with 2 doors but longer body/wheelbase.
73 LD Longer wheelbase
version of the 70 LD detailed above
74 Similar to 73
except with turbo engine
75 P Square bodied
pickup with removable steel top
75 V Square bodied
wagon with 2 doors and 2 windows per side in the rear
75 C Cab & Chassis
77 Four-door 70
series wagon
78 Virtually
identical to above
80 Current rounded
wagon
90 AKA
Challenger/Prado/Colorado. NOT really a Land Cruiser, just a
re-badged/re-bodied
IFS 4Runner.
MEGA Copy of a Hummer
developed WITH the assistance of AM General. Complete
with gear
reduction hubs, 4WS, Inboard 4 wheel disc brakes, Torsen LSD's
_WITH_LOCKS_,
adjustable rear tire pressure
4.1 Availability (Model Year)
-----------------------------
SERIES AUS
CANADA U.S. JAPAN
AK-10 ..... .....
..... 42-?
BJ ..... .....
..... 51-54
25 ..... NA?
58-59 55-59
28 ..... .....
..... .....
35 ..... NA
NA 60
40 ??-84 60-84
60-83 60-84
42 81-84 81-84
NA 82-84
43 ..... NA
NA .....
45 L ??-84 63-80%
63-67+ 60-67
S ..... 63-67?
63-67+ .....
W ..... 63?-68
63-67+ .....
46 ..... NA
NA 82-84
47 81-84 NA
NA .....
55 ..... 68-80
68-80 .....
60 ??-90 80-87
80-87 .....
61 86-90 NA
NA .....
62 85-90 88-89
88-89 .....
70 85- 85-87
NA 84-89
LD 85-92 NA
NA .....
73 85-90 NA
NA .....
74 85-90 NA
NA 85-89
75 P 85- 90?-#
NA NA
W 85- NA
NA .....
77 NA NA
NA 90-94
78 NA NA
NA 93-96
80 90- 92-
90- .....
+Some 67's were rebadged
as '68's
%Industrial use only
81-89?
#Industrial use only
4.2 Specifications
------------------
OVERALL WHEELBASE TRACK
SPRINGS SPR LEN* HANG WID#
SERIES LENGTH MM IN
FR/RR MM FR RR FR RR FR RR
BJ 3793 2400 94
1390/1350 LF LF
25 3838 2285 90
1390/1350 LF LF
40 3680 2285 90
1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1070 686 970
42 3680 2285 90
1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1070 686 970
43 W 3968 2430 96
1404/1400 LF LF 1125 1265 686 970
43 4038 2430 96
1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970
45 L 4760 2950 116
1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970
W 4630 2650 104
1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970
S 4651 2650 104
1404/1400 LF LF 686 970
47 4760 2950 116
1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970
50 3930 2285 90
1415/1400 LF LF
50 V 3930 2285 90
1415/1400 LF LF
VB 4395 2755
1415/1400 LF LF
55 4637 2700 106
1404/1400 LF LF 1071 1155 686 970
55 2BL 5300 3355
1415/1400 LF LF
B 4900 2955
1415/1400 LF LF
BL 5300 3355
1415/1400 LF LF
60 4576 2730 108
1485/1470 LF LF 1058 1160 796 1030
62 4576 2730 108
1485/1470 LF LF 1058 1160 796 1030
70 3476 2310 90
1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1156 640 940
LD 3476 2310 90
CO CO
73 4410 2600
1425/1400 LF LF
LD 4410 2600
1460/1440 CO CO
75 P 4995 2980
1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1156 640 940
W 4885 2980
1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1282 640 940
77
CO CO
80 4780 2850 112
1595/1600 CO CO
MEGA 5090 3395 134
1775/1775 CO CO
*SPR LEN (Spring Length)
is defined as the distance between the centrelines of
the front and rear hangers
for a spring.
#HANG WID is the lateral
distance between spring hangers.
4.3 Stock Curb Weights (lbs)
----------------------------
SERIES ENGINE B 3B
15B-FT F 2F 1FZE 1HD-FT
25
3142
40 HT
3470 3792
40 ST
3265
80
4760
MEGA
6284
5.0 Engines
===========
5.1 Gas Engines
---------------
Gas Land Cruiser engines
are manufactured by Toyota.
The F and 2F engines were
also used in Toyota Forklifts.
The F engine is supposed
to be based on the Chevy 225 I-6 "Cast Iron Wonder"
and some of the bottom end
along with the water pump and several other
components are supposed to
be interchangeable.
The main differences
between the F and the 2F are the 2F's larger bore,
the F's 2 compression and
2 oil rings versus the 2F's 2 compression and single
oil ring and the fact that
the F had two oil paths--through the filter or
through the engine
compared to the 2F where all oil had to travel through the
filter before the engine.
5.2 Diesel Engines
------------------
Most of the diesels are
made by Hino industries, a sub-contractor for Toyota.
Similar engines were used
in Hino heavy trucks which are used in Canada, so
the drivetrain of Hino
trucks may be adaptable. Hino engines similar to the B
and 3B are supposed to be
used to run the refrigerator units on some
refrigerated semi
trailers. Some of the B and 3B diesels are manufactured by
Daihatsu and can be
identified by the letter "D" on the timing cover.
Most diesels in Japan and
Canada are 24V and therefore meet NATO
military specs. However,
Canadian 1985 (85/10) BJ70's and all Canadian
BJ60's are 12V. In
Europe, all diesels before 1984 and all diesels larger
than 4 cylinders after
1984 are 24V except for in the 80 series which uses
a 24/12V Series/Parallel
switch to allow 24V starting and 12V while running.
Australian diesels are all
12V.
The B, H, and 2H were also
used in Toyota Forklifts, Dyna and Coaster buses.
5.3 Other Engine Suppliers
--------------------------
Portugese BJ73's use a VM
engine made by the Italian company Stabilimenti
Meccanici VM S.p.A. South
African HJ75's use an Atlantis Diesel Engine licensed
from Perkins. The
Brazilian made Bandeirantes used a Mercedes diesel engine.
5.4 Engine Specifications
-------------------------
Legend
FUEL
ID - Indirect
Injection Diesel
DD - Direct Injection
Diesel
EID - Electronically
Indirect Injection Diesel
T - Turbo
EFIG - Gas Electronic
Fuel Injection
DISP
TORQUE BORExSTROKE COMP
MODEL (CC) CYL FUEL
HP@RPM FT-LB@RPM VALVES (mm) (mm) RATIO
B (GAS) 3386 6 G
85@3600 159@???? 12 OHV 84x102 6.4:1
B 2977 4 ID
80@3600 141@2200 8 OHV 95x105 21:1
2B 3168 4 ID
93@3600? 159@2200 8 OHV 98x105 21:1
3B 3431 4 ID
90@3500 159@2200 8 OHV 102x105 20:1
13B-T 3431 4 TDD
120@3400 210@2000 8 OHV 102x105 17.6:1
14B 3661 4 DD
96@3400 177@2200 8 OHV 102x112 18.0:1
15B-FT 4104 4 TDD
155@3200 288@1800 16 OHV
F (-60) 3878 6 G
105@3200 189@2000 12 OHV 90x102 6.8:1
F (60-) 3878 6 G
125@3600 209@2000 12 OHV 90x102 7.5:1
2F 4230 6 G
135@3600 210@1800 12 OHV 94x102 7.8:1
3F 3955 6 G
155@4000 219@3000 12 OHV 94x95
3F-EFI 3955 6 EFIG
155@4200 220@2200 12 OHV 94x95 8.1:1
1FZ-??? 4477 6 G
138@???? Low compression engine for low grade fuel
1FZ-F 4477 6 G
190@4400 268@2800 24DOHC 100x95 9.0:1
1FZ-FE 4477 6 EFIG
212@4600 275@3000 24DOHC 100x95 9.0:1
H 3576 6 ID
90@3600 151@2200 12 OHV 88x98 21.0:1
H 3576 6 ID
95@3600 159@2200 12 OHV 88x98 19.5:1
2H 3980 6 ID
103@3500 177@2000 12 OHV 91x102 20.7:1
12H-T 3980 6 TDD
135@3500 231@2000 12 OHV 91x102 18.6:1
1HD-T 4163 6 TDD
165@3600 268@2000 12SOHC 94x100 18.6:1
1HD-FT 4163 6 TDD
168@3600 280@2500 24SOHC 94x100 18.6:1
1HZ 4163 6 ID
135@4000 187@2200 12SOHC 94x100 22.7:1
1KZ-T 2982 4 TID
125@3600 218@2000 8 96x103 21.2:1
1KZ-TE 2982 4 EID
130@3600 213@2000 8 96x103 21.2:1
2L 2446 4 ID
72@4000 115@2200 8SOHC 92x92 22.3:1
2L-T 2446 4 TID
86@4000 139@2400 8SOHC 92x92 20.0:1
2L-TII 2446 4 TID
90@4000 159@2400 8SOHC 92x92 21.0:1
1PZ 3469 5 ID
115@4000 170@2600 10SOHC 94x100 22.7:1
22R 2367 4 G
105@4800 136@2800 8SOHC 92x89 9.0:1
22R-E 2367 4 EFIG
114@4600 192@3400 8SOHC 92x89 9.0:1
OTHER
STABILIMENTI MECCANICI
VM (ITALY)
VM66A 2494 5 ID
108@4200 220@1600 10 OHC 88x92 22.0:1
ATLANTIS DIESEL (SOUTH
AFRICA)
ADE236 3860 DD
80@2800 220@1400 8 OHV 98x127 16.0:1
MERCEDES BENZ
(BRAZILIAN BANDEIRANTE)
OM314 3784 DD
85@2800 235@1800 8 OHV 97x128 17.0:1
OM364 3972 DD
90@2800 235@1800 8 OHV 98x133 17.3:1
5.5 Availability (Model Year)
-----------------------------
SERIES AUS CANADA
U.S. JAPAN
B 78-80 NA
74-80
2B
80-82
3B 81-90 81-87 NA
81-90
13B-T ??-90 NA NA
84-90
F 58?-74 58?-74
55-74
2F 75-84 75-87
74-87
3F 84-92 NA NA
3F-EFI 88-92 88-92
88-92
1FZ-FE 93- 93-
93-
2H 81-90 85-87 NA
80-90
12H-T 86-90 NA NA
86-90
1HD-T 90-95 NA NA
91-
1HD-FT 95-
1HZ 90- 95-+ NA
91-
2L 81-84
81-83 83-87
2L-T 86-93 84-85*
84-85* 84-87
2L-T-II
1PZ 90-93 ??91-+
22R 84-92 81-88#
81-88#
*In Toyota Diesel Pickups
#In Toyota Pickups
+Industrial Use Only
6.0 ENGINE/CHASSIS COMBINATIONS
(PRODUCTION YEAR)
=================================================
B(GAS) F
10 ..... .....
BJ 51-53 .....
25 54-59 55-59
28 ..... 58-59
V ..... 58-59
35 ..... 56-59
B 2B 3B
13B-T 14B F 2F H 2H
40 74-78 ..... .....
..... ..... 60-74 74-84 ..... .....
V 74-78 ..... .....
..... ..... 61-74 74-84 ..... .....
41 ..... 79-81 .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
42 ..... ..... 81-84
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
43 74-81 ..... 81-84
..... ..... 60-74 74-84 ..... .....
44 ..... 79-81 .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
V ..... 80-81 .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
45 C ..... ..... 81-84
..... ..... 61-74 74-86 72-80 .....
45 L ..... ..... 81-84
..... ..... 61-74 74-85 72-80 .....
S ..... ..... .....
..... ..... 61-74 74-85 ..... .....
W ..... ..... .....
..... ..... 60-68 ..... ..... .....
46 ..... ..... .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
47 L ..... ..... .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 80-85
47 C ..... ..... .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 80-84
50 B ..... ..... .....
..... 96- ..... ..... ..... .....
55 W ..... 79-80 .....
..... ..... 67-74 74-79 ..... .....
56 W ..... ..... .....
..... ..... ..... 74-79 ..... .....
B ..... ..... .....
..... 96- ..... ..... ..... .....
3B 13B-T 2F
3F-EFI 2H 12H-T
60 81-89 ..... 80-84
..... 81-89 .....
61 ..... ..... .....
..... ..... 86-89
62 ..... ..... .....
85-89 85-89 .....
3B 13B-T 15B-T 2F
3F-EFI 1FZ-FE 2H 12H-T 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HZ 1PZ
70 84-89 ..... .....
84-85 85-92 93- ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90-
71 ..... 87-89 .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... 93- ...
72 ..... ..... .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ...
73 84-89 ..... .....
84-85 85-93 93- ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90-
74 ..... 87-89 .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ...
75 84-89 ..... .....
..... 85-92 93- 85-89 ..... 90- ...... .... 90-
77 ..... ..... .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90-
78 ..... ..... .....
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... 93- ...
80 ..... ..... .....
..... 90-92 93- ..... ..... 90- 95- 90- ...
MEGA ..... ..... 95-
..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ...
2L 2L-T 2L-T-II
1KZ-T 1KZ-TE 22R 22R-E
70 LD 84-86 86-90 90-
..... ..... 84-88 88-
71 LD ..... ..... 91-93
..... ..... 84-88 ...
72 LD ..... 86-90 90-93
..... ..... ..... ...
73 LD ..... 88-90 90-
..... ..... ..... 88-
77 LD 90-93 ..... .....
..... ..... ..... ...
78 LD ..... ..... 91-93
..... ..... ..... ...
78 LD ..... ..... .....
..... 93-96
6.1 Selected Country Engine/Chassis
Sales Figures (Model Year)
CANADA
Mod
------------------------------------------------------------
Yr BJ40 BJ42 BJ60 BJ70
FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 FJ62 HJ60M HJ60P
76
946 181
77
1204 471 175
78 160
1204 342 260
79 279
130
80 173 173
222 45 30
81 765 451
82 451 791
83 167 614
84 234 716
85 460 388
86 137
305 215
87 139
309 188
88
444
89
120
7.0 Performance/Fuel Economy
============================
0-100km/h
Fuel Ecomomy (l/100km)
BJ40 4SPD 4.11 diff
29.9s 13.0
BJ42 4SPD 4.11 diff
24.4s 13.7
FJ40 4SPD 3.70 diff
18.7s 18.6
FJ60 4SPD 3.70 diff
16.3s 17.4
HJ60 4SPD 3.70 diff
22.7s 12.5
MEGA AUTO
25.3MPG@37MPH
8.0 Transmissions & Transfer
Cases
==================================
The H4X transmissions used
with the gas engies use a 275mm clutch and have an
output shaft that is
1-1/16" in diameter and has 10 splines. H41
transmissions were never
offered on US model Cruisers but may have been
available in some Canadian
45 series pickups. The transmissions for B diesels
use a 1-1/2" longer
input shaft with different splines and will not mate to
either an F or H series
engine.
When the four speed was
introduced in 1974, the transfer case ratio was
raised and new helical cut
gears were used that were wider and quieter
than the earlier model.
Until 1981, parking brake was mounted on the
driveline after the
transfer cases. In 1981, the new split-case
transfer case was
introduced. It featured a stronger idler shaft and
the parking brake was
moved to become part of the rear drum brakes.
8.1 Transmission & Transfer Case
Ratios (All :1)
------------------------------------------------
MODEL ENGINE DATES
SPDS 1ST 2ND 3RD 4TH 5TH R TFR LW TFR
?FJ25? F 4
5.41 3.12 1.77 1.000 5.44 NONE SPLINES
BJ B 52 4
5.53 3.48 1.71 1.000 5.60 NONE
?B-85? B(GAS) 4
5.299 2.843 1.634 1.000 5.299
J30 F 69-75 3
2.757 1.691 1.000 3.676 2.313 10
H41 F 4
4.925 2.643 1.519 1.000 4.925 1.992 16
H42 F,B 73-75 4
3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 1.992 16
75-80 4
3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 1.959 16
81-89 4
3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 2.276 19
H4?? F,B,H 81- 4
4.843 2.619 1.516 1.000 4.843 1.963 19
H55F F,B,H,HZ 83- 5
4.843 2.619 1.516 1.000 0.845 4.843 1.959 19 NOT USA
H5?? B 5
4.925 2.643 1.519 1.000 0.859 4.925 1.992 16
H150F HZ 5
4.529 2.464 1.490 1.000 0.881 4.313 2.488
H151F 3F,FZ,HD 5
4.081 2.294 1.490 1.000 0.881 4.313 2.488
R151F PZ,KZ 90- 4
4.313 2.330 1.436 1.000 4.220 1.963 19
A440F F -90 4
2.950 1.530 1.000 0.717 2.678 2.296
A440F F 90-91 4
2.950 1.530 1.000 0.717 2.678 2.488
A442F FZ,HD 4
2.950 1.530 1.000 0.765 2.678 2.488
A???? 15F-T 4
3.018 1.548 1.000 0.765 2.678 2.488
G40 L,2L,R,1PZ 4
3.928 2.333 1.451 1.00 4.743 21
G52F L, 2L,R 5
3.928 2.333 1.451 1.000 0.851 4.743 2.276 23
150R 2L-T 5
4.313 2.330 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 2.295
???? 2L-T, 1KZ-T 5
3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 2.296
???? 1KZ-T, 1KZ-TE 5
3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 1.959
9.0 Axles
=========
Regular Land Cruiser axle
housings are similar to a Ford 9" and differential
carriers are similar in
construction to a Chevy 12bolt. The front and rear
differential housings are
both offset to the right in all models except some
'58-62's which were
centred. They have an 9.5" ring gear. The axle shafts
are 33mm in diameter (the
same as a some Dana 60's) 1960-67 shafts had
10 coarse splines while 68
and later shafts have 30 fine splines. In
1968, the front axle CV
joints changed from ball joints to Birfield.
Full Floating Axles have
smaller shafts because the entire weight of the
truck is bourne by the
wheel bearings and the shaft itself is not loaded
in flexure.
Light Duty axle housings
are the same as those used in Toyota Pickup trucks.
They feature a smaller
housing constructed similarly to the heavy duty Land
Cruiser. The ring gear is
only 8" but the axle shafts are the same size and
have the same number of
splines as the regular Land Cruiser.
All Land Cruisers produced
after 1991 use a reverse-cut 8" ring gear in the
front and the 9.5"
ring gear in the rear.
60/2 Series axles are 70mm
wider than 40 series
70 Series axles are 20mm
wider than 40 series
9.1 AXLE CODES
--------------
Axle codes are never
located on the axle housings themselves. In trucks
manufacturered after 1976,
the axle codes are located on the build plate
which can be found inside
the engine compartment. The pinion (and sometimes
the ring gear have the
tooth counts (from which the ratio can be calculated)
stamped into them.
Example: K 08 2
^ ^^ ^-2 spider
gears
| ++---4.11
ring/pinion ratio
+------9.5"
ring gear
First digit: ring gear
size
G 8"
J 9.25"
K 9.5"
Second, third digits:
ring/pinion gear ratio
(These numbers apply to
ALL Toyota vehicles--known Land Cruiser ratios are
indicated)
01 3.30
02 3.36
03 3.545
04 3.556
05 3.70 HD Cruiser,
Aftermarket HD Cruiser
06 3.889
07 3.90 HD Cruiser
08 4.111 HD Cruiser,
Aftermarket HD Cruiser
09 4.222
10 4.375
11 4.444
12 4.625
13 4.79
14 4.875
15 5.125
16 5.286
17 5.60
18 5.714
19 5.833
20 6.167
21 6.667
22 6.78
23 6.833
24 7.64
25 4.556 LD Cruiser,
Aftermarket HD Cruiser
26 5.571
27 3.364
28 4.30 LD Cruiser
29 4.10
30 3.727
31 3.909
32 6.591 or 5.583
33 7.503 or 5.583
34 6.781 or 4.786
35 7.636 or 5.60
36 4.778
37 3.583
38 3.417
4.88 Aftermarket HD
Cruiser
Fourth digit: no of
spiders, ltd slip/locker
Code spiders
2 2 open
3 2 LS
4 4 Locking
Diff
5 4 LS
10.0 Production Codes
=====================
The production code of a
Land Cruiser breaks down as follows:
aJnna[a-aa...]
The numbers/letters
preceding the dash describe the body/frame style.
The first digit indicates
the motor series (B/F/H/...)
The "J"
indicates the vehicle came from the "J" production line
the 3rd and 4th digits are
numeric and indicate the series (25/40/60/...)
The 6th digit (if present)
indicates steering position:
L Left Hand
Drive
R/<missing> Right
Hand Drive
The 7th digit (if present)
indicates body type:
V Hardtop
G Luxury
model/wagon
P Pickup
<missing> Soft
top
The letters after the dash
indicate options etc:
Transmission type
<missing> 3SPD
K 4SPD
M 5SPD
P 4SPD AUTO
Rear Door Type
<missing>
Tailgate
C Swingout
(Ambulance)
N Lift-up
Tailgate (Wagons Only)
Grade/Trim Level
E VX
N GX/LX
R Standard
Aspiration
S Standard
E EFI
X Turbocharged
The last letter usually
indicates the intended market:
W Europe
Q Australia
Y Japan
K Canada
A North America
V Middle East
If the vehicle was
delivered incomplete (usually as a cab and chassis) it
received the final
designation of 3.
ABBREVIATIONS USED
ARL Australia
CAN Canada
FIN Finland (Potentially
holds true for all of Europe)
GEN General Export
JAP Japan
ME Middle East
NA North America
USA ? :)
5F 5 Speed Manual
4F 4 Speed Manual
4FC 4 Speed Automatic
IV Incomplete Vehicle
(Usually Cab/Chassis Only)
SOB Swing Out Back Door
LUB Lift Up Back Door
RB Roll Bar
PU Pickup
FRP Removable Fiberglass
Top
ST Soft Top
SRF Low Roof
HRF High Roof
CODE ENG
PRODUCTION NOTES
BJ40
LV-KCJK B
3/78-7/80 CAN 4F SOB RB
LV-KCW B
7/75-12/80 FIN 4F SOB RB
BJ42
LV-KCJK 3B
8/80-10/82 CAN 4F SOB RB
LV-KCW 3B
10/80-12/82 FIN 4F SOB RB
LV-MCJK 3B
10/82-10/84 CAN 5F SOB RB
LV-MCW 3B
1/80-11/85 FIN 5F SOB RB
RV-KCQ 3B
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SOB RB
RV-MCQ 3B
10/82-10/84 ARL 5F SOB
BJ45
LV-KCW 3B
10/80-8/85 FIN 4F TROOP
LP-KW 3B
10/80-11/85 FIN 4F PIC
BJ60
LV-KK 3B
8/80-10/81 CAN 4F
LG-KK 3B
10/81-10/82 CAN 4F
LG-MK 3B
10/82-10/85 CAN 5F
BJ70
L-KR 3B
11/84-8/88 GEN 4F ST
LV-KN 3B
8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX
LV-KR 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT
LV-MN 3B
8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LX
LV-MR 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT
LV-MRK 3B
11/84-8/86 CAN 5F HT LX 12V
LV-MNK 3B
8/86-7/87 CAN 5F HT LX
R-KR 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F ST
RV-KR 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT
RV-MR 3B
11/84-8/88 GEN 5F HT
RV-MRQ 3B
11/84-1/90 ARL 5F HT
BJ73
LV-MN 3B
8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LX
R-KR 3B
8/86-1/90 GEN 4F ST
RV-MRQ 3B
11/84-8/86 ARL 5F FRP
RV-MNQ 3B
8/86-1/90 ARL 5F FRP LX
BJ74
V-PNX 13BT
10/85-1/90 JAP 4FC FRP
RV-PRXQ 13BT
10/85-8/86 ARL 4FC HT
RV-MNXQ 13BT
8/86-1/90 ARL 5F HT L
RV-MRXQ 13BT
10/85-8/86 ARL 5F HT
RV-PNXQ 13BT
8/86-1/90 ARL 4FC HT LX
RV-PEXQ 13BT
8/86-8/88 ARL 4FC HT VX
BJ75
LP-KR 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F PIC
LP-MRV 3B
8/87-1/90 ME 5F PIC
LV-MRW 3B
5/85-12/89 FIN 5F TROOP
LV-MRP 3B
5/85-1/90 FIN 5F PIC
LV-KR 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F TROOP
RP-KR 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F PIC
RP-KR3 3B
11/84-8/86 GEN 4F PIC IV
PR-MR3 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F PIC IV
RV-KR 3B
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F TROOP
FJ40
L-A F
3/69-1/75 NA ST
LV F
1/68-1/75 FIN HT
LV-A F
3/69-1/75 NA HT LUB
LV-AC F
4/72-1/75 NA HT SOB
LV-KCW 2F
10/75-5/79 FIN HT RB
L-KJA 2F
1/75-2/76 NA ST RB
L-KJA 2F
2/76-7/80 USA 4F ST RB
L-KJA 2F
8/80-10/81 USA 4F ST RB
LV-KCJA 2F
1/75-2/76 NA 4F HT SOB
LV-KCJA 2F
2/76-7/80 NA 4F HT SOB RB
LV-KCJA 2F
8/80-9/83 USA 4F SOB RB
LV-KJA 2F
2/76-7/80 NA 4F HT
LV-KCJK 2F
2/76-7/80 CAN 4F HT SOB RB
LV-KCJK 2F
8/80-10/81 CAN 4F HT SOB RB
LV-KJK 2F
2/76-9/77 CAN 4F ST
KJA 2F
8/80-11/81 NA
LV-KCJA 2F
8/80-9/83 NA
LV-KCJK 2F
8/80-10/81 CAN
R-KJC 2F
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F ST
R-MJQ 2F
10/82-10/84 ARL 5F ST
RV-KQ 2F
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F LUB
RV-KCQ 2F
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SOB
RV-MCQ 2F
10/82-10/84 ARL 5F SOB
RV-KCQ 2F
8/80-10/84 ARL 4F TROOP SOB
FJ45
LP-KK 2F
6/76-7/80 CAN 4F PU
LP-B F 3/69
R-KJQ 2F
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F PU ST
RP-KQ 2F
8/80-10/84 ARL 4F PU
RP-KQ3 2F
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F PU IV
FJ55
LG F
3/69-1/75 NA
LG-KA 2F
1/75-2/76 NA 4F
LG-KA 2F
2/76-7/80 USA 4F
LG-KK 2F
2/76-7/80 CAN 4F
LV-B F
5/68-1/75 FIN
LV-KCW 2F
10/75-12/80 FIN 4F
FJ60
LV-KK 2F
8/80-10/81 CAN 4F
LG-KA 2F
8/80-8/87 NA 4F 'G'
LV-KA 2F
9/86-8/87 USA 4F
RG-KQ 2F
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MQ 2F
10/82-11/84 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MZQ 2F
5/83-11/84 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RV-KCQ 2F
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SRF SOB
RV-MCQ 2F
10/82-11/84 ARL 5F SRF SOB
FJ62
LV-PNEA 3F-E
8/87-8/88 USA 4FC
LG-PNEA 3F-E
8/87-1/90 USA 4FC 'G'
LG-PNEK 3F-E
8/87-1/90 CAN 4FC 'G'
RG-MQ 3F
11/84-8/87 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MZQ 3F
11/84-8/87 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-PQ 3F
11/84-8/87 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PZQ 3F
11/84-8/87 ARL 4FC HRF LUB 'G'
RG-MRCQ 3F
8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF SOB
RG-MNQ 3F
8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PNQ 3F
8/87-1/90 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MNZQ 3F
8/87-8/88 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-MEZQ 3F
8/88-1/90 ARL 5F HRF LUB VX
RG-PEZQ 3F
8/87-1/90 ARL 4FC HRF LUB VX
RV-MCQ 3F
11/84-8/87 ARL 5F SRF SOB
RV-PCQ 3F
11/84-10/85 ARL 5F SRF SOB
FJ70
L-KR 3F
11/84-8/88 GEN 4F ST
L-MR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F ST
L-MRV 3F
11/84-8/88 ME 5F ST
L-PR 3F
11/84-8/86 GEN 4FC ST
LV-KN 3F
8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX
LV-KR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT
LV-MEV 3F
8/86-1/90 ME 5F HT VX
LV-MN 3F
8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LX
LV-MNV 3F
8/86-1/90 ME 5F HT LX
LV-MR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT
LV-MRV 3F
11/84-1/90 ME 5F HT
LV-PEV 3F
8/86-8/88 ME 4FC HT VX
LV-PN 3F
8/86-1/90 GEN 4FC HT LX
LV-PNV 3F
8/86-1/90 ME 4FC HT LX
LV-PR 3F
11/84-8/86 GEN 4FC HT
LV-PRV 3F
11/84-8/88 ME 4FC HT
R-KR 3F
11/84-8/86 GEN 4F ST
RV-KR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT
RV-MR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT
RV-MRQ 3F
11/84-1/90 ARL 5F HT
FJ73
L-KR 3F
11/84-8/88 GEN 4F ST
L-MR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F ST
L-MRV 3F
11/84-1/90 ME 5F ST
LV-MEV 3F
8/86-1/90 ME 5F FRP VX
LV-MN 3F
8/86-1/90 GEN 5F FRP LX
LV-MNV 3F
8/86-1/90 ME 5F FRP LX
LV-MR 3F
11/84-8/86 GEN 5F FRP
LV-MRV 3F
11/84-8/86 ME 5F FRP
LV-PEV 3F
8/86-8/88 ME 4FC FRP VX
LV-PNV 3F
8/86-1/90 ME 4FC FRP LX
LV-PRV 3F
11/84-8/86 ME 4FC FRP
RV-MRQ 3F
11/84-8/86 ARL 5F FRP
RV-PRQ 3F
10/85-8/86 ARL 4FC FRP
RV-MNQ 3F
8/86-1/90 ARL 5F FRP LX
RV-MNQ 3F
1/90-8/91 ARL 5F FRP LX
RV-PNQ 3F
8/86-1/90 ARL 4FC FRP LX
RV-MEQ 3F
8/86-8/88 ARL 5F FRP VX
RV-PEQ 3F
8/86-1/90 ARL 4FC FRP VX
FJ75
LP-MNV 3F
8/86-1/90 ME 5F PIC LX
LP-KR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F PIC
LP-KR3 3F
11/84-8/86 GEN 4F IV
LP-MR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F PIC
LP-MRV 3F
11/84-1/90 ME 5F PIC
LP-MR3 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F IV
LV-KR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT TROOP
LV-MR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT TROOP
LV-MRV 3F
11/84-1/90 ME 5F HT TROOP
RP-KR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F PIC
RP-KR3 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F IV
RP-MR 3F
11/84-10/85 GEN 5F PIC
RP-MR3 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F IV
RP-MRN 3F
10/85-1/90 SA 5F PIC
RV-KR 3F
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT TROOP
RV-MRQ 3F
11/84-1/90 ARL 5F HT TROOP
RV-MRQ 3F
1/90-8/92 ARL 5F HT TROOP
RP-MRQ3 3F
11/84-1/90 ARL 5F IV
RP-MRQ3 3F
1/90-8/92 ARL 5F IV
RV-MRKQ 1FZ-FE
8/92-1/90 ARL 5F HT TROOP
RP-MRKQ3 1FZ-FE
8/92-1/90 ARL 5F IV
FJ80
L-GNPNEA 3F-E
1/90-8/92 NA 4FC
R-GCMRSQ 3F
1/90-8/92 ARL 5F SOB
R-GNMNSQ 3F
1/90-8/92 ARL 5F LUB GXL
R-GNPNEQ 3F-E
1/90-8/92 ARL 4FC LUB GXL
R-GNPEEQ 3F-E
1/90-8/92 ARL 4FC LUB VX
FZJ80
L-GNPEKA 1FZ-FE
8/92-1/90 NA 4FC
R-GCMRKQ 1FZ-FE
8/92-1/95 ARL 5F SOB
R-GNMNKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92-
ARL 5F LUB GXL
R-GNPNKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92-
ARL 4FC LUB GXL
R-GNPEKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92-
ARL 4FC LUB VX
HJ45
LP-KW H
1/79-12/80 FIN 4F PIC
HJ47
RV-KCQ 2H
8/80-10/84 ARL 4F TROOP SOB
RP-KQ 2H
8/80-10/84 ARL 4F PIC
RP-KQ3 2H
8/80-10/84 ARL 4F PIC IV
HJ60
LG-KW 2H
11/80-11/85 FIN 4F
LG-MNW 2H
11/87-2/90 FIN 5F SRF LUB
LG-MNZW 2H
11/87-11/89 FIN 5F HRF LUB
LG-MK 2H
10/85-8/87 CAN 5F
LG-MW 2H
2/83-11/87 FIN 5F
LG-MZW 2H
4/84-11/87 FIN 5F HRF LUB
LG-PK 2H
10/85-8/87 CAN 4FC
RG-KQ 2H
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MQ 2H
10/82-8/87 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MNQ 2H
8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MRCQ 2H
8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF SOB
RG-MZQ 2H
5/83-10/85 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-PQ 2H
11/84-10/85 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PZQ 2H
11/84-8/87 ARL 4FC HRF LUB 'G'
RV-KCQ 2H
8/80-10/82 ARL 4F SRF SOB
RV-MCQ 2H
10/82-8/87 ARL 5F SRF SOB
RV-PCQ 2H
11/84-10/85 ARL 4FC SRF SOB
HJ61
LG-MXW 12HT
5/86-11/87 FIN 5F LUB 'G'
LG-MNXW 12HT
11/87-1/90 FIN 5F LUB 'G' (Special series 2/89-1/90)
RG-MXQ 12HT
10/85-8/87 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MZXQ 12HT
10/85-8/87 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-PXQ 12HT
10/85-8/87 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PZXQ 12HT
10/85-8/87 ARL 4FC HRF LUB 'G'
RG-MNXQ 12HT
8/87-1/90 ARL 5F SRF LUB 'G'
RG-PNXQ 12HT
8/87-1/90 ARL 4FC SRF LUB 'G'
RG-MNZXQ 12HT
8/87-8/88 ARL 5F HRF LUB 'G'
RG-MEZXQ 12HT
8/88-1/90 ARL 5F HRF LUB VX
RG-PEZXQ 12HT
8/87-1/90 ARL 4FC HRF LUB VX
HJ75
LP-KR 2H
11/85-1/90 GEN 4F PIC
LP-MR 2H
10/85-1/90 GEN 5F PIC
LV-KP 2H
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT TROOP
RP-KR 2H
11/94-1/90 GEN 4F PIC
RP-KR3 2H
11/94-1/90 GEN 4F IV
RP-MR 2H
11/84-10/85 GEN 5F PIC
RV-KR 2H
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT TROOP
RP-MRQ 2H
11/84-1/90 ARL 5F PIC
RP-MRN AD
10/85-1/90 SA 5F PIC (Atlantis Diesel Engine)
RV-MRQ 2H
11/84-1/90 ARL 5F HT TROOP
RP-MRQ3 2H
11/84-1/90 ARL 5F PIC IV
HDJ80
R-GNMNXQ 1HDT
1/90-1/95 ARL 5F LUB GXL
R-GNPNXQ 1HDT
1/90-1/95 ARL 4FC LUB GXL
R-GNMEXQ 1HDT
1/90-1/95 ARL 5F LUB VX
R-GNPEXQ 1HDT
1/90-1/95 ARL 4FC LUB VX
R-GNMNWQ 1HDFT 1/95-
ARL 5F LUB GXL
R-GNPNWQ 1HDFT 1/95-
ARL 4FC LUB GXL
R-GNPEWQ 1HDFT 1/95-
ARL 4FC LUB VX
HZJ70
RV-MRQ 1HZ
1/90-1/95 ARL 5F HT
V-MNS 1HZ 1/95-
JAP 5F ? LX
V-MNU 1HZ 1/95-
JAP 5F ? LX
HZJ73
RV-MNQ 1HZ
1/90-8/91 ARL 5F HT LX
RV-PNQ 1HZ
1/90-8/91 ARL 4FC HT LX
HZJ75
RP-MRQ 1HZ 1/90-
ARL 5F IV
RP-MRQ3 1HZ 1/90-
ARL 5F IV
HZJ80
R-GCMRSQ 1HZ 1/90-
ARL 5F SOB
R-GNMNSQ 1HZ 1/90-
ARL 5F LUB GXL
LJ70
L-KR 2L
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F ST
LV-KN 2L
8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX
LV-KR 2L
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT
LV-MR 2L
11/84-1/90 GEN 5F HT
LV-MNX 2LT
8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT LX
LV-MRX 2LT
10/85-8/86 GEN 5F HT
LV-MRXW 2LT
9/86-11/86 FIN 5F HT
LV-MNXW 2LT
11/86-12/92 FIN 5F HT (Special 6/87-11/87, 5/91-12/92)
R-KR 2L
11/84-8/88 GEN 4F ST
RV-KN 2L 8/86-8/88 GEN
4F HT LX
RV-KR 2L 11/84
GEN 4F HT
RV-MR 2L
11/84-10/85 GEN 5F HT
RV-MRX 2LT
10/85-8/86 GEN 5F HT
RV-MRXQ 2LT
10/85-8/86 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA
RV-MNXQ 2LT
8/86-1/90 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA LX
RV-MNXQ 2LT
1/90-8/92 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA LX
RV-MEXQ 2LT
8/86-8/88 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA VX
PZJ70
RV-MRQ 1PZ
1/90-5/93 ARL 4F HT
RV-MNQ 1PZ
1/90-5/93 ARL 5F HT LX
-MRS 1PZ
JAP 5F ST
V-MNS 1PZ
JAP 5F HT LX
V-MRS 1PZ
JAP 5F HT
PZJ77
HV-MNU 1PZ
1/90-1/94 JAP 5F HT LX
V-MRU 1PZ
1/90-1/94 JAP 5F HT
HV-MNS 1PZ
1/90-1/94 JAP 5F HT LX
V-MRS 1PZ
1/90-1/94 JAP 5F HT
RJ70
L-KR 22R
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F ST
L-MR 22R
11/84-8/86 GEN 5F ST
L-MRV 22R
11/84-8/88 ME 5F ST
LV-KR 22R
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT
LV-KN 22R
8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX
LV-MN 22R
8/86-1/90 GEN 5F HT
LV-MEV 22R
8/86-8/88 ME 5F HT VX
LV-MNV 22R
8/86-1/90 ME 5F HT LX
LV-MRV 22R
11/84-8/88 ME 4F HT
R-MRQ 22R
11/84-8/88 ARL 5F ST BUNDERA
RV-KR 22R
11/84-1/90 GEN 4F HT
RV-KN 22R
8/86-8/88 GEN 4F HT LX
RV-MRQ 22R
11/84-8/86 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA
RV-MNQ 22R
8/86-1/90 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA LX
RV-MNQ 22R
1/90-8/91 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA LX
RV-MEQ 22R
11/84-8/86 ARL 5F HT BUNDERA VX
11.0 Body Colour Codes
======================
This list is by no means
complete. I don't know the start/end date for most of
the colours. When I
precede a date by a "<" I'm sure of that date, but
believe
the colour was AVAILABLE
BEFORE that date. If I put a "-<" before a date, the
colour was PHASED OUT
BEFORE that date.
CODE COLOUR NAME
YEARS OFFERED
4x
55 6x 7x 80
012 Cygnus White
<71-76 <71-76
033 White
80-
113 Health Grey
<71-<79
155 Dk Charcoal Grey
Irrid. 87
202 Green
309 Freeborn Red
<71-84 <71-79 80-
414 Buffalo Brown
<71-<79
415 Pueblo Brown
<71-<79 <71-<79
416 Dune Beige
<71-80
464 Beige
79-84 80-84
474 Dark Copper
-79
4E9 Beige
85
4G8 Light Beige Irrid.
532 Yellow
<76-<79,82?
611 Dark Green
-<79
621 Rustic Green (Dark)
<71-79
622 Nebula Green
<71-<79 <71-<79
653 Olive Green
<76-82
681 Green (Medium)
81-83
808 Horizontal Blue
<71-<75
822 Royal Blue
<71-<79 <71-<76
854 Blue (sky blue)
<76-80
857 Nordic Blue (Dark)
79-84 80-84
Feel Like Blue
861 Bright Blue Irrid.
81-83
8B4 Night Blue Irrid.
85-
LM11
Two Tone patterns
VEHICLE YEARS
CODE COLOURS USED
FJ55(L)V, V-B 71
C6580 113/012/113
71
C6581 309/012/309
71
C6582 415/012/415
71
C6583 622/012/622
71
C6584 822/012/822
FJ55LG 71
C6591 113/012/113
71
C6592 309/012/309
71
C6593 415/012/415
71
C6594 622/012/622
71
C6595 822/012/822
12.0 Decoding your ID plates
============================
I'll describe the various
ID plate types with their usual location in brackets.
Keep in mind, I've only
seen North American plates so yours may be quite
different. The
extra-descriptive plate with the axle/transmission/colour codes
was not used until 1976.
If your vehicle was sold in North America, there's a
99-44/100% chance that
youre truck's got 4.11 gears and an H42 or J30
transmission anyways.
Pre-1974 ID Plate (FENDER
APRON)
+-----------------------------------------+
|O T O Y O T A
O|
| MODEL FJ40L
|
| ___ ENGINE MODEL
F |
| |tep| NUMBER OF
CYLINDERS 6 |
| ~~~ BORE
3.54 in |
| STROKE
4.00 in |
| PISTON
DISPLACEMENT 237 cu.in |
| NO. FJ40-000000
|
|O TOYOTA MOTOR
CO., LTD. O|
+-----------------------------------------+
1976 FJ55 (FENDER APRON)
+-----------------------------------------+
|O T O Y O T A
O|
| MODEL FJ55LG-KK
|
| ENGINE 2F
4230cc/257.9cu.in |
| FRAME No. FJ55-86909
|
| COLOR/TRIM
|
| TRANS/AXLE
|
| PLANT/G.V.W.
MADE |
| JAPANESE...
IN |
|O tep TOYOTA MOTOR
CO., LTD. JAPAN O|
+-----------------------------------------+
13.0 40 Series Specific Info
============================
13.1 Production Timeline (US/Canada)
------------------------------------
MODEL
YEAR ENG TRANSMISSION
TRANSFER OTHER
1960 F 3-on the tree
2.313:1 Start of prodution
Small round FR turn signals
Single brake master cyl resevoir
1963 3 on the floor
(Option)
1964
Flip-up roof vent removed
Smooth headlight bezel
1965
Larger side windows and corner
windows added
1968
30 fine spline axles replace 10 coarse
splines
Birfield joints replace ball joints in FR
Siamese centre exhaust ports replaced
One
piece manifold gasket added
Cable throttle linkage replaces rod
Padded Dash
Vin
plate on door pillars
1969
"Improved" steering centre arm
Small Rectangular FR turn signals
Replaceable element oil filter replaced
with catridge type (03/69)
1970
Dual resevoir master cyl
Dual horns
1971
Power Brakes (07/70)
1972 3 on the floor
STD Smog pump appears (09/72)
Domed pistons in F become standard (09/72)
Additional wire added from starter to coil
(12/72)
1973
Separate model for Calif introduced (09/73)
EGR
system added (09/73)
Extra gusseting added to spare tire carrier
(03/73)
Additional frost plugs added to block (09/73)
Notched con-rod bearings replace knock pin
(09/73)
Additional oil hole for rocker lubrication
added (09/73)
Head bolts lenthened to 145.5mm (09/73)
Two
ridges added to valves for retainers
(09/73)
Front diff fill plug moved 20mm closer to
centreline of axle (12/73)
Saftey catch added on hood
Ignition switch moved to steering
column
Factory AM radio
Stronger steering box
1974 2F 4 SPD
1.999:1 4 Speed Transmission (8/74)
Larger universal joints & flanges (01/74)
Transfer shift rod notched for driveshaft
clearance (1/74)
Rectangular RR brake lights/turn signals
RR
lower shock bolt moves from axle to U-
bolt bracket
Clutch changed from coil spring type to
diaphragm (08/74)
Clutch slave moved from left to right side
of bellhousing (08/74)
Cover added to timing hole (08/74)
No.
2 cover on bellhousing changed from
steel to rubber (08/74)
Clutch release fork boot modified)
U-joint flange modified for better grease
nipple access (11/74)
Longest production run of any LC (9/73-
12/74)
1975
1.959:1 Thicker side doors
Ambulance doors replace lift/tailgate
LG
Square FR Turn Signals/side markers
Wipers move to bottom of windshield
Muffler moved from between frame
rails to under rear tub
Transfer Case shift lever size increased
(03/75)
Transfer Case gear area increased (Start of
1.959 Case Ratio) (04/75)
Valve seats improved (04/75)
1976
FR disk brakes (9/75)
Larger brifields
Front outer axle shafts changed from 10
coarse splines to 30 fine splines
Front spindles and bearings enlarged
Build plate appears
Transfer bushing diameter decreased (02/76)
1977
Tubular spare tire mount (09/76)
Pop-out rear windows (08/76)
1978 2F,B
Diesel comes to Canada
Fine spline pinion flange (1/78)
1979
3.73:1 Diff becomes standard on FJ
22
gal under-floor fuel tank
Power steering becomes and option
Air
conditioning becomes an option
Reclining Seats
Catalytic converter
Fewer, larger body mounts
Squared off headlight bezel & wider set
headlights
Tail-lights grounded via wire instead of
through housing (1/79)
1981 2F,3B
2.276 3B comes to Canada
Improved 3B exhaust manifold
Larger shackles, hangers & frame gussets
Split case transfer case
New
RR brakes with 11.8" drums and single
self-adjusting wheel cylinder (8/80)
Parking brake moved from rear of TFR to
rear drums
Warn front hubs replaced with stainless
steel Aisin units
Front outer axle shafts shortened
Rear heater moves under center console
"Shield" shaped steering wheel centre
Locking "Pocket"
Chrome window weather stripping replaced
with rubber
1983
4(40)/5SPD(42)1.959 Dash re-designed & includes digital clock
1984
Production CEASES! :(
Although production of the
40 Series Land Cruiser stopped in 1984, there is
still a _COPY_ in
production. It is manufactured in Brazil and is called a
Bandeirante. It features
a body/frame which is a copy of a Land Cruiser and
is powered by a Mercedes
diesel motor.
13.2 More Production Info
--------------------------
These are some known dates
associated with frame and engine numbers. This
should provide some
assistance in determining the vintage of components.
DATE FRAME NO.
ENGINE NO. TRANNY NO. NOTES
04/69 067429
Starting frame for '70
09/70 89034
Starting frame for '71
09/71 113001
Starting frame for '72
08/72 134102
Starting frame for '73 ST
08/72 134627
Starting frame for '73 HT
09/72 140174
F-406511
03/73 144381
05/73
F-434231
09/73 160001
F-510001 Starting frame for '74
11/73
3J-425
12/73 165428
12/73 166077
12/73 166226
01/74 167459
04/74
F-539555
08/74 179420
4spd tranny
08/74 179455
3spd tranny
11/74 185078
4L-1104
12/74 191096
Starting frame for '75
03/75 195335
04/75 198572
2F-917420 5D-2128 Start of 1.959 tfr ratio
05/75 199225
05/75 200074
09/75 207793
Starting frame for '76
01/75 215536
02/76 219424
602-2435
09/76 231077
Starting frame for '77
09/77 256757
Starting frame for '78
01/79 298294
05/81 341000
14.0 55 Series Specific Info
============================
14.1 Production Timeline (US/Canada)
- Kerry Manning (D55guy@engr.colostate.edu)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Many of the FJ40
changes also apply
MODEL
YEAR ENG TRANSMISSION
TRANSFER OTHER
1969 F135 3 on tree
2.313:1 FT turn (Amber) mounted on side of
engine cowling (wing style)
Front parking lights (A) mounted in grill
Brake lights (R) and rear turn signals (R)
mounted at belt line
Mini "scoops" mounted on hood
1970
Grill slightly modified
Front turn signal (A) mounted on top of
fender (simple pedestal style)
Front parking lights (A) removed
Mini "scoops" removed
1971
A/C becomes optional! (7/70)
Temperature gauge changed (7/70)
F155
Oil filler moved to valve cover (3/71)
3 on the floor
Rod linkage replaces vacuum shift on t-case
(3/71)
Headlight bezel updated (3/71)
Smaller windshield washer tank (3/71)
1972
Speedometer changed (9/71)
Steering box and associated parts changed
(4/72)
1973
Very minor modification to grill (9/72)
Rear vent added (9/72)
Two
piece license plate light replaces the
one
piece (9/72)
Heater changed with larger front blower vent
(9/72)
Dash changed to fit removable panel for
easier access (9/72)
Key
moved to column (9/72)
Steering wheel changed (9/72)
Speedometer changed (9/72)
Antenna changed (1/73)
1974
Wing window removed (9/73)
Two
piece fender emblem replaced with one-
piece (9/73)
ASCO Hubs become standard (9/73)
2F 4SPD
Oil filter moved to side of block
Aluminum valve cover and water pump
Smaller air cleaner on top of valve cover
Hood changed to accommodate 2F air cleaner
1975
Front running lights (A) removed (12/74)
Front turn signal upgrades to combination
signal (pedestal style) (12/74)
Exhaust system redesigned (1/75)
Optional A/C redesigned (1/75)
Lock added to fuel door (1/75)
Door lock changed so door must be unlocked
to be opened from inside (8/75)
1976
Larger, fine spline Birfields (9/75)
Front disc brakes (9/75)
Greatly improved brake booster (9/75)
Temperature gauge changed (9/75)
Retractable front seat belts (1/76)
Optional A/C redesigned (2/76)
1977
Slight cosmetic modifications to tailgate
(12/76)
"TOYOTA" and "4 WHEEL DRIVE" emblems
added
to
tail gate (12/76)
1978
Combination tail light (9/77)
Combination gauge ammeter upgraded from
warning light to actual gauge (9/77)
Fuel gauge changed (9/77)
Temperature gauge changed (9/77)
Upgraded horn (9/77)
1979
Ring and Pinion ratio changed to 3.70 (1/79)
Speedometer changed (9/79)
1980
The seen mystical legend of the 55 w/ factory p.s.
Production ends
14.2 Frame Number dates
-----------------------
See the FJ40 section for engine
number dates.
DATE FRAME NO. NOTES
04/69 013179
Starting frame for '70
09/70 018461
Starting frame for '71
09/71 024001
Starting frame for '72
08/72 029632
Starting frame for '73
12/72 031360
09/73 037001
Starting frame for '74
11/73 038641
12/73 038844
12/73 038878
01/74 039208
08/74 043288 4spd
tranny
08/74 043293 3spd
tranny
11/74 045017
12/74 046864
12/74 046926
Starting frame for '75
03/75 049008
04/75 049988
05/75 050647
California
06/75 051761
08/75 053910
09/75 054106
Starting frame for '76
02/76 058666
02/76 059587
09/76 065053
Starting frame for '77
09/77 078501
Starting frame for '78
01/79 100328
15.0 60 Series Specific Info
============================
15.1 Production Info
--------------------
DATE FRAME NO.
TRANNY NO.
5/81 013248
5/81 014196
11/86
6J-3857
Aftermarket tailgate lift
struts
NAPA Balkamp Powerlift
819-5565
16.0 80 Series Specific Info
============================
16.1 Full Time 4WD
------------------
All 80 series Cruisers
sold in North America and Europe are full time 4wd. In
Africa and Australia, a
part-time system is still available. 80's produced
between '90-'91 have an
open center differential which is lockable in 4HI and
automatically locked in
4LO. From '92 on, vehicles with ABS had a viscous
coupling that sent a
maximum of 30% torque the non-slipping axle. The
differential is lockable
in 4HI and automatically locked in 4LO.
16.2 Locking Differentials
--------------------------
Locking differentials were
available as options in all 80 series. From 94 on,
they were standard in
Canada. The operation of the lockers is very elegant.
When the differential lock
dial is turned to the "Locked" position, it switches
on a small electrical
servo. The servo pushes on a dog clutch which is meshed
with the splines on the
axle shaft. The dog clutch slides along the axle shaft
and engages on the side of
the differential carrier. The axle is then
completely locked. They
were offered from the procuction date 8/92 onwards.
17.0 Buying/Inspecting a Land
Cruiser
=====================================
NOTE: This article is
biased towards 40 series Land Cruisers, although it can
be applied any model.
Also, parts of this may sound a little like a sermon.
This is because for me
Land Cruiser ownership goes beyond possesing a vehicle
and well into the realm of
the occult. Are YOU willing to sacrifice you life
for your Land Cruiser?
Furthermore, this article
should be required reading for the new Land Cruiser
owner. Running through
the pre-buy checklist will help you find potential
problems in your new
truck, and see what maintenance needs to be done.
So you want to buy a Land
Cruiser. First, some words of warning. If you're looking
at a 40 series, the
vehicle will be at least 11 years old. It was built as an
offroad vehicle and as a
result has probably taken alot more of a beating than a
car of a similar vintage.
It will definitely require more upkeep than a new
vehicle.
With all Land Cruisers,
newer is definitely better. Unlike the Jeeps whose
"quality" varied
widely from year to year until Chysler "neutered" them all
and
Land Rovers where some
Series are shunned because their headlights are in the
wrong place, Toyota was
continually improving the Land Cruiser. Check the
production timelines
earlier in the FAQ to determine which features you can live
without and hence how old
you're willing to go. The only exception to this rule
is if you're living under
a fascist regime such as Kalifornia where ancient
frames are prized for
their smog exempt status.
Usually long before
someone decides to sell a Cruiser, they decide that they
should stop pouring money
into it. Therefore, shortly after you purchase your
truck you can expect to
have to dump a whole lot of money into it to fix little
things the previous owner
couldn't be bothered to do. This can be VERY
discouraging. Don't
worry. Once you get your truck into a roadworthy state, it
will remain there for
quite some time. When I first got my truck, the fuel
gauge didn't work, most of
the knobs were missing, the headlights had a nasty
habit of turning off
instead of switching to high-beam, none of the interior or
signal lights worked, the
u-bolt plates were cracked, the shackle pins were
about to rip out of the
shackle plates, the rear tub was basically gone, along
with the bottom 2" of
the hard top and rear doors.
Older Land Cruisers
(Anything other than a 60 or 80) make lousy daily drivers.
They're loud, they suffer
from a relatively harsh ride and vague-on road
handling, and the gas ones
get lousy fuel economy. Thanks to brick-like
aerodynamics, side-winds
quickly become tail-winds. You don't want to commute
in an FJ40.
Anyways, that said, there
are some requirements that I believe a Land Cruiser
owner should meet. They
need to have a steady income. I bought my Cruiser
while I was in university
and wound up having to take a couple of years off to
work to be able to fix it
up. If you're a starving student, you're probably
better off with a
mini-truck. Parts are cheaper, and there's a whole lot more
of them so they're more
"disposable"
If you've got a
significant other, your relationship has to be up to the
stresses imposed by the
new arrival. It took a long time for my girlfriend to
adjust to being a "Land
Cruiser widow" If a Land Cruiser is brought into a weak
relationship, there's
always the chance you won't get to keep the house--then
you'd be without a garage
to work in.
Actually, a garage is
pretty much required. Lying out in the street is
hazardous and people tend
to walk off with tools they find lying on the
sidewalk.
I also firmly believe that
you should do EVERYTHING on your Cruiser AT LEAST
ONCE. If you have a
professional mechanic attend to all you maintenance, you'll
be out of luck when
something goes wrong miles from the nearest gas station
So you've warned anyone
that cares about you that you'll never see them again,
and their only contact
with you will be standing in the garage yelling at the
underside of your truck.
You're mentally prepared to become the caretaker of a
disappearing breed. Time
to go shopping.
You should start scanning
the local classified ads for a couple of months before
you actually begin to shop
in earnest. That way, you can begin to check out the
local price-structure. In
certain parts of the U.S. and Eastern Canada, you may
only see one Cruiser a
week, if that. Once you learn that the most ancient
truck costs more money
than you have, you're ready to start making calls.
When you finally locate a
truck, it's time to go for a look. The things you
should watch for can be
grouped into several categories.
17.1 Engine
-----------
I'm not a fan of gas truck
engines, so I can't offer too much help here. I've
heard that the intake
manifold tends to crack if the truck has been overheated.
Start by checking for
coolant leaks from the hoses, water pump,
and radiator. Next check
for oil leaks from around the pushrod inspection plate
that the blow-by tube
comes from, the gasket between the oil pan and the block,
and the vaccum pump if so
equipped (diesel)
17.1.1 Diesel Engine
--------------------
When the engine is fired
up, watch how quickly the oil pressure builds. If the
idle is high (the engine
feels smooth instead of causing the whole truck to
shake) There's probably
either a hole in the diaphragm or the vaccum lines that
go to it. Both are
relatively cheap and easy to replace provided you buy
Nippondenso and not Toyota
parts. You can test a diaphragm by pulling off the
top end of the "clear"
vacuum hose that goes to the rearmost nipple on the
injection pump and blowing
into it. If you can build pressure, the diaphragm is
still good.
It is normal for a cold
diesel to blow a little white smoke at start-up. Black
smoke usually means that
the injectors need service, white smoke indicates
under-injection of diesel
(probably due to a perforated diaphragm), and blue smoke
shows that oil heavier
than diesel is burning (Ohh ohh!) When the truck is running,
check for excessive
exhaust coming out of the blow-by tube. If the truck has a
noticable miss as it warms
up, one of the glow plugs is shot. They have to be
replaced as a set. The
amount of blow-by will indicate the amount of wear in
the engine.
17.1.2 Gas Engine
-----------------
Pull the spark plugs and
check them for oil fouling. If they're coated, oil is
getting into the cylinder
past the rings and valve guides.
17.2 Cooling System
-------------------
With the engine COMPLETELY
cold, remove the rad cap and check the coolant level.
If you can' actually see
any coolant in the rad, there's probably a leak. If a
B/H series diesel is
overheated or run with inadequate coolant, the heads are
prone to cracking.
Carefully look at the rad. Usually leaks will show up as
whitish stains. When you
return from a test drive, mist the rad with
water. If all the water
evaporates then the tubes aren't plugged. If there are
areas where the water
evaporates and others where it doesn't [cold spots,
usually vertical sections
of the rad] then the rad needs to be serviced [power
flushed or rodded-out].
You can also check for cold spots by using your hand but
there is often not a lot
of space between the grille and the rad --> and you
could burn your hand. Be
careful.
17.3 Electrical
---------------
In both gas and diesel
Cruisers, check the alternator for excessive play. A
brand new onw is worth a
small fortune. Rebuilt 12V ones are difficult to find
and 24V ones are virtually
impossible. If a diesel alternator with a vacuum
pump on the back shows any
signs of oil leakage, it's probably shot.
If you find that there are
accessories (radio etc. attached to only one battery
of a 24V diesel, you can
expect to replace the battery shortly. Drawing 12V off
one of the battery loads
them unequally leading to undercharging of one and
overcharging of the other.
In 1974 and up 40 series,
a dead bulb, bad ground, or wiring problem in a turn
signal will result in the
indicator light in the dash sticking "on"
In 60 and 70 series the
same type of problem will show up as the indicator light
flashing "double
time"
17.4 Transmission/transfer
--------------------------
Check for leaks in all the
gaskets and seals. Chances are, if a seal is leaking,
the bearing behind it is
shot. Ask the owner what kind of lubricant they're
using. Synthetic gear oil
will often manage to seep past a seal that's good
enough for regular oil.
If a seal is weeping synthetic gear oil, chances are
it's on its way out
anyways.
Check for lateral play in
the output yokes from the transfer case. Movement
intdicates bearings that
are in need of replacement. If the movement is greater
than 1/8" chances are
the gears themselves have been damaged once that occurrs,
the transfer case gets
EXTREMELY expensive to re-build.
If a 40 series has been
lifted more than 2", check to make sure that the notch
in the skid plate the
front drive shaft passes through has been enlarged.
Otherwise, the rearmost
yoke on the front driveshaft will bang on the plate
causing the bearings in
the transfer case to fail.
With the truck parked on a
level surface, take out the transmission fill plug.
If gear oil pours out of
the plug, the seal between the transfer case and
transmission is probably
shot. This is a cheap part, but replacing it pretty
much requires pulling the
transfer and transmission. I also believe that when
this seal goes, it's not a
bad idea to rebuild the transfer anyways. It is
usually the first internal
problem that develops, and rebuilding the case when
it goes ensures that all
the gears will still be in good shape.
A leak from the rear
output flange of the transfer usually results in destroyed
parking brake shoes in
pre-1981 transfer cases.
When test-driving the
truck, feel how smoothly the truck shifts. It is normal
for four and five speed
transmissions to be a little balky when they're cold.
The H55F 5 speed tends to
be worse in this respect. If the transmission is
difficult to shift when
warm, chances are the synchros are shot.
Transmissions/transfer
cases popping out of gear is a desparate cry for a
rebuild. Left for any
length of time, it will lead to severe gear/shift collar
damage.
17.5 Driveshafts
----------------
Check for play in the
universal joints. Although a worn joint is cheap to fix,
if the truck has been
driven with the excessive vibration of a failed joint for
any length of time, the
transfer case and pinion bearings can suffer. Dents in
the shafts can also cause
vibrations and premature failure. Grab the shafts on
either side of the slip
joint and try to rotate each side in the opposite
direction. If there's
movement, or wose yet a "clicking" the slip joint splines
are worn and will need to
be replaced. Check that the univeral joints and slip-
joints have been greased,
but NOT just prior to your arrival. (There should be
SOME dirt stuck to any
traces of grease on the zerk-fittings or around the
joints)
Grab the driveshaft on
either side of the slip joint and try to rotate the two
halves relative to each
other. Any movement indicates that the splines in the
slip joint are shot and
either the driveshaft must be cut and the splines
replaced, or the whole
driveshaft must be replaced.
17.6 Rear Axle
--------------
Check the pinion flange
for excessive play. Usually slop here will result in an
a destroyed ring and
pinion.
While inspecting the
brakes, check for any signs of gear oil on the backing
plates or brake shoes.
Gear oil that has leaked past the seal at the outboard
end of the axle tube will
saturate the brake shoes and destroy them.
It is rare for a Cruiser
to experience wheel bearing failure unless they've
REALLY been abused.
17.7 Front axle
---------------
The above rules for
checking the pinion bearings apply along with some potential
problems for the steering
knuckles. Check that there is a thin coating of
grease covering the
knuckle balls from top to bottom. Accumulations of crud on
the knuckle balls can
indicate one of two things. Grease indicates that the
knuckle seals are shot.
Gear oil indicates that the seal inside the axle tube.
Either problem requires
complete disassembly of the knuckles. If the balls are
dry, they've been run
improperly lubricated for quite a while and at least the
upper knuckle bearings
will be destroyed. If the tire can be grabbed by the top
and rocked back and forth,
either the wheel bearing is loose, or the knuckle
bearings are shot. Get
someone else to try and rock the wheel and watch if it's
moving relative to the
knuckle or if the knuckle is moving relative to the axle
tube. Quite often if the
wheel bearings are loose, they are simply in need of
re-packing and adjustment.
17.8 Steering
-------------
In manual steering
equipped Cruisers, check for gear oil in the steering box by
removing the breather vent
located on the top. If there is none, the pitman-arm
seal has failed and the
bearings are probably almost gone. If there is grease
in the steering box, the
seal has failed, and the owner has at least tried to
extend the life of the
steering box. It may be salvagable, but pulling the
pitman arm to replace the
seal will require a very stout puller and possibly a
little heat from an
oxy-acetelyne torch.
Have someone rock the
steering wheel back and forth through a 90 degree arc
while you inxpect the
steering box and centre arm (on 40's-55's) The centre arm
should rotate with no sign
of "wobbling" If the steering tends to "stay where
it's left" while
driving rather than returning to centre, the seller has
probably cranked up the
centre arm to try to hide slop.
Check the ball joints with
a pair of water-pump pliers. Squeeze the ball joint
from the top and bottom
(taking care not to put pressure on grease nipples, if
present) if it
"compresses," it is worn out. Replacing worn tie-rod ends
is
relatively easy, but
ensure that there's only play in the ball joint and not in
the threads between the
rod and the end. This will require replacing the rods
themselves.
17.9 Brakes
-----------
To check the brakes, push
the pedal down and hold it. If the pedal travels
slowly to the floor, there
is a leak in the system. If it is apparent the
system is leaking, start
off by checking at each wheel. Remove each wheel in
turn and check for leaks.
Look for leaks from the callipers on disc brake
equipped vehicles, and
wheel cylinders on drum brake equipped vehicles.
On drum brake vehicles,
put each drum back on and feel how easily it pulls off.
It is usually very
difficult to coerce a drum to come off, but once you've
broken the "seal of
rust," they should only be slightly snug--if they come off
too easily the wheel
cylinders need adjustment. Out-of-adjustment wheel
cylinders will also show
up when you depress the brake pedal in the form of
excessive pedal travel.
Check the shoes for reasonably even wear and thickness
and look for any signs of
scoring in the drums. Try to turn the adjusters on
the wheel cylinders. If
they're seized, they will need replacement. You can
get a rough idea if the
drums are warped or not by putting them back on the
truck and spinning them.
There should be even resistance thought a complete
rotation.
Check all the steel lines
for excessive corrosion or kinks. Flexible lines can
be checked by "kinking"
them back on themselves. If the edge that is in tension
shows signs of cracks, it
needs replacement.
17.10 Suspension
----------------
Many people will replace
the factory suspension anyways, so for them damage here
is of little concern. If
the stock suspension is to be retained, there are a
number of items that
should be checked. Check the spring packs for broken or
bent leaves. If there are
no shoulders on the bushings or the shackle pin doesn't
appear to pass through the
centre of the spring eye/spring hanger the bushings will
need to be replaced.
Check at theres no movement of the shackle pin relative to the
shackle plate. Pre-81
stock shackles are prone to the pins working loose.
Looking at the condition
of the U-bolt ends below the spring plate will give
clues to the use of the
vehicle. If the U-bolt ends are bent/scraped, the truck
has seen some off-road
beating. While looking under the U-bolt plate, ensure
that you can see the nut
and spring pin. The pin will sometimes break in the
middle of the spring pack
causing the bottom chunk to fall out. Replacing the
pin requires
removing/replacing the U-bolts as well.
Check that the shock
mounts on the rear crossmembers and u-bolt plates aren't broken.
Frame/axle mounted broken
pins must be cut out and new ones welded in. On 40 series,
the top front shackle
mount pin will sometimes develop play relative to the shock mount
tower. If that is the
case, it can temporarily be fixed by adding another washer to the
large-nut end of the pin,
but will eventually require proper replacement
which involves
welding/boring out the tower.
17.11 Body
---------
This is probably where
you'll find the greatest variance in Land Crusiers. Some
trucks are pristine and
have been hermetically sealed in their garages all
winter, whereas some have
been used to launch boats in the ocean. The former
will have a body. The
latter won't.
The problem areas for 40
series are: (probable order of occurence)
-along the seam between
the sides of the body and the tops of the fenders in
the rear
-under the back doors
-the "box section"
that runs under the door sills
-the lower edges of all
doors
-on the fenders around the
turn signals
-on the fenders where the
support brackets from the frame attach
-along the sill that runs
down in front of the doors
-the windshield frame
under the rubber gasket
-the lower edge of the
hard top and the steel drain sill under the fibreglass
The problem areas for the
60's and 70's are
-the lip around the fender
wells
-the lower edges of all
the doors
-the rear quarter panels
-under the rubber gasket
around the windshield
-under the mud flaps
-basically any seam around
the rear wheel-wells.
-the seams in the front
footwells
Finding a 60 that has the
dealer-installed aluminum running boards is a good
sign. Intact running
boards indicates that the vehicle had never really been
used offroad and they also
prevent the rocker panels/lower door edges from
being hit by spray from
the tires, decreasing the liklihood of rust.
17.12 Frame
-----------
The most common areas for
frame rust on a 40 series are the gusset plates above
the rear-most spring
hangers, the rear crossmember, and the diagonals that
run from the frame rails
to the crossmember. As long as the frame rails
themselves are okay, most
of the gussets/brackets can be replaced. If the steel
looks like its
"delaminating," it is shot.
On pre-1981 trucks, the
frames also tend to crack where the boxing ends above
the front-most rear spring
perches. The crack tends to run longitudinally from
the rear-most rivet on the
perch towards the back of the truck. The spring
perches can also be
tweaked, especially if the truck has been running extended
shackles. As you sight
along the framerails the shackles should be
perpendicular to the
bottom flange. Tweaked fixed-pin spring perches are rarer,
but if a rear one is out
of alignment, chances are the frame has cracked.
Because of the stronger
design, perch/hanger problems aren't as common on post-
'81 40s and 42s. Feel
through the holes on the inboard sides of the frame
rails. Large flakes of
rust are a sign of problems to come.
60s and 70s only real
problems stem from rust. Their frame designs don't have
the same large holes as on
40s so they're harder to clean and more prone to
trapping crud and rusting.
Feel through the small access holes for signs of
rust flakes. The worst
spots for frame rust on 60s and 70s are where the
muffler is next to the
frame. It is possible for the steel to be weakened to
the point that a
screwdriver can easily be poked through it with no outwardly
visible warning signs.
The other big problem area is the rearmost section of
the frame where it is just
a channel (as opposed to fully boxed)
17.13 Inspection Checklist
--------------------------
Here's a handy checklist
to print out and take with you when going to look at a
prospective purchase. It'
based on the checklist used for the Coastal Cruisers
annual safety inspection:
OWNER INFO
Name:_________________________
Directions to truck's location:_____________
Address:______________________
____________________________________________
Phone Number:
(____)____-_____ ____________________________________________
VEHICLE INFO
Model:_________________
Production Date:_________ Mileage:__________________
ENGINE
Oil Level G A P
Oil Pressure G A P
Motor Mounts G A P
Spark/Glow Plugs G A P
Carb G A P
Governer Diaphragm G A P
COOLING SYSTEM
Radiator G A P
Overflow Bottle G A P NA
Hoses G A P
Belts G A P
Water Pump G A P
BATTERY TIE DOWNS
LF G A P NA
RF G A P NA
LIGHTS Head Lights
Markers Turn Signals Brake Reverse License
LF G A P G
A P G A P
RF G A P G A P
G A P
LR G
A P G A P G A P G A P
RR G
A P G A P G A P G A P G A P
SUSPENSION Springs
Bushings Shocks Shackles Centre Pins
LF G A P G
A P G A P G A P G A P
RF G A P G
A P G A P G A P G A P
LR G A P G
A P G A P G A P G A P
RR G A P G
A P G A P G A P G A P
EXHAUST
Manifold G A P
Pipes G A P
Muffler G A P
WIPERS G A P
HORN G A P
STEERING
Box G A P
Centre-Arm G A P NA
Tie Rod Ends G A P
Rag Joint G A P NA
U-Joints G A P NA
Slip Joint G A P NA
BRAKES Parking
Shoes/Pads Drums/Rotors Master Cyl.
LF G A P
G A P G A P
RF G A P
G A P
LR G A P G A P
G A P
RR G A P G A P
G A P
CLUTCH
Master Cyl G A P
Slave Cyl G A P
BEARINGS Wheel
Knuckle Pinion Transfer Case Output
LF G A P G A P
RF G A P G A P
F
G A P G A P
R
G A P G A P
SEALS Wheel Knuckle
Pinion Transfer Case Output
LF G A P G A P
RF G A P G A P
F
G A P G A P
R
G A P G A P
DRIVE SHAFTS U-Joint
Slip Joint
FF G A P
G A P
FR G A P
RF G A P
G A P
RR G A P
BODY Mounts Seat
Belts Roll Bar/Cage Sup.
LF G A P G A P
G A P
RF G A P G A P
G A P
LM G A P
G A P
RM G A P
G A P
LR G A P G A P
G A P
RR G A P G A P
G A P
BODY Fenders Rocker
Panels Quarter Panels Lower Door Windshield
LF G A P G A P
G A P G A P
RF G A P G A P
G A P G A P
LR G A P
G A P G A P G A P
RR G A P
G A P G A P G A P
FRAME Rails Perches
Hangers
LF G A P G A P
G A P
RF G A P G A P
G A P
LR G A P G A P
G A P
RR G A P G A P
G A P
18.0 Drivetrain Swaps
=====================
18.1 Non-Toyota Equipment
-------------------------
There is really no limit
as to the complexity of swaps you can attempt with a
Land Cruiser. The most
common modifications are swapping engines and
transmissions. Let me
begin by saying that I am not a big fan of putting
non-Toyota equipment into
Land Cruisers. I only decided to write this section
because I got tired of
people asking me about swaps and not being able to
provide any answers. This
section is incomplete and will probably remain that
way for quite some time
until fans of the various engines supply me with more
info. Also, because I do
not have first hand experience with anything in this
section, the chances of me
making errors is greater. If you have a functioning
2F in your truck, I would
leave well-enough alone. The engine is VERY heavy
duty, makes good low-end
torque, will never overheat provided your cooling
system is in good shape.
An older F is potentially a better candidate to be
removed and replaced with
a more modern setup. It should be noted that once you
pull the F series motor
from your truck, it is no longer a FJ40/55/60/... I prefer
the designation of V8J40.
I will talk about engine swaps retaining a Toyota
transmission, transmission
swaps retaining a Toyota engine, swaping in a new
engine and transmission
simultaneously, and finally, I'll touch on transfer case
and axle swaps.
18.2 Diesel Engine Swaps
------------------------
I'm starting here because
to me this is the swap that makes the most sense for a
rock-crawling machine and
is probably the least explored. As you'll figure out
shortly, I'm pretty
opinionated on this one and I welcome anyone to dispute my
views. I believe that
diesel engines are superior to gas ones for offroad use
for many reasons. They
tend to make usable torque at much lower engine speed
than gas engines. This
means you don't need nearly as low a crawl gear. They
also feature a much
flatter torque curve. There is no ignition system to fail
because of moisture. They
are not as affected by altitude, in fact, turbocharged
diesels are virtually
immune to altitude. In most cases, even though they have
all the advantages of a
fuel injected engine, such as the ability to run at
extreme angles, they rely
on mechanical injection which is considerably simpler
than electonic injection.
Diesel engines also tend to get much better fuel
economy and greater
cruising range than gas engines of similar displacement.
There are three commonly
available engines that are suitable for swapping into
Land Cruisers. Probably
the biggest obstacle to the conversion is finding the
engine itself. The GM
engines are the only ones listed here that are available
in light-duty automotive
applications. The others are all industrial/medium
duty truck engines. These
motors tend to be snapped up as soon as the vehicle
they were in is wrecked
and rebuilt by companies with exclusive licenses.
Unless you're willing to
pay top dollar for a rebuilt unit (not a bad idea) you
have to somehow find a way
to intercept a motor before the rebuilders get their
hands on it.
The most easily obtained
is the GM 6.2l diesel. A conversion kit is
available from Mark's
Adapters in Australia to mate a GM diesel to a Land
Cruiser 4 speed manual or
automatic transmission. The GM V8 supposedly weighs
about as much as a big
block, so pretty close to the weight of a 2F. The L65 is
found in C/K 2500HD
trucks, C/K 3500 trucks and C/K 2500 Suburbans. The L56 is
found in C/K 1500 trucks.
C/K 2500 LD Trucks, K1500 Blazers/Tahoes/Yukons, and
C/K 1500 Suburbans. The
6.2l is found in all pickups and Suburbans, and in
Chev/GMC P30/P3500 step
vans.
The 8th digit in the VIN
of the donor vehicle indicates the motor type:
MODEL
DESIGNATION LETTER
6.2L C
6.2L J
6.5L Y
6.5LT (L56) S
6.5LT (L65) F
The GM 5.7l is without a
doubt the worst diesel engine ever cobbled together.
It is the Olds 350 gas
block that was converted to diesel. Probably 99% of
these motors have been
blown apart for at least 10 years, but some may still be
kicking around. If
someone offers you one, they are NOT your friend.
A slightly more rare
engine that I see as being a better match to a Land Cruiser
is a Cummins B3.9 litre
turbo diesel. It was used in among other things, Ford
E350 cube vans, and Case
580 Tractors.
PowerMark used to offer a
conversion kit (p/n RK9525G) that was designed to
allow you to bolt in a
B3.5/5.9 in place of a GM 292 I6 or 350 V8 in GMC cube
vans. In order to put
this engine into a LC using the stock transmission, you
would simply need to get
the motor mounts/bellhousing Advance Adapters sells for
putting a V8 in and use
the Cummins engine instead, as well as possibly having
to modify the supplied
intake system and radiator hoses. Unfortunately,
PowerMark has now gone out
of business. Fleet Supply has bought up the
remainder of their stock
and plans to continue production. They also plan to
introduce a kit for
Chev/Ford pickups. The kits should be available from your
friendly neighbourhood
Cummins dealer.
I think the Cummins B5.9,
as used in Dodge Ram is definitely too heavy to put
into a 40 series, and is a
little heavy for a 55/60/80 series. It is also a
little on the long side.
The above mentioned kit would also work for a B5.9.
The best diesel swap into
an FJ40 I've ever seen is the Isuzu 3.9l diesel, model
number 4BD1T. Two of its
applications were in Isuzu NPR series cab-forward
trucks, and LINK-BELT
LS2700CII (4BDIT). I also believe it was used in the GM
Forward 3000-4000 series
trucks. There are two paths for putting an Isuzu
diesel into a Land
Cruiser. The first involves a factory Isuzu adapter
bellhousing. It is
designed to mate any SAE #3 flywheel cover to a GM manual
transmission with a 5.125"
bore (SM420). The bellhousing bears the casting
number WF 150015.
Unfortunately, this bellhousing has recently been
discontinued. There are
still some around--try your local Isuzu dealer. A
better option is an
adapter ring. I have yet to locate a commercial source for
these--the one I've seen
was made years back by a company that has since gone
out of business. The ring
allows a GM bellhousing with a 350 bolt pattern to be
attached to an SAE #3
flywheel cover. Using the adapter ring, it would be
possible to attach the
4BD1T directly to a Toyota transmission with an Advance
adapter Chev->Toyota
bellhousing.
18.2.1 Isuzu Engine Specs
-------------------------
DISP
(INDUST) TORQUE COMP
MODEL (CC) CYL FUEL
BHP* FT-LB RATIO
4BD1 3856 4 DD
88@2800 181@1600 17.1
4BD1T 3856 4 TDD
105@2500 240@1600 17.5:1
6BD1 5785 6 DD
142@2800 289@1600 17.5:1
6BD1T 5785 6 TDD
163@2500 375@1800 17.5:1
MODEL BORE STROKE
DRY WT LENGTH WIDTH HEIGHT
(IN) (IN)
(LBS) (IN) (IN) (IN)
4BD1 4.02 4.64 710
35.3 24.4 30.4
4BD1T 4.02 4.64 719
35.2 25.3 33.2
6BD1 4.02 4.64
1003 44.6 24.6 33.2
6BD1T 4.02 4.64
1089 44.6 26.4 37.4
*Figures according to SAE
J1349 Gross BHP test. "Automotive" BHP of the 4BD1T for
instance is actually
121@3000.
18.2.2 Cummins Engine Specs
---------------------------
DISP
TORQUE DRY WT LENGTH HEIGHT BORE
MODEL (CC) CYL
FUEL BHP FT-LB (LBS) (IN) (IN)
4BT3.9 39xx 4
TDD 105@2500 260@1500 705 30.1 35.6
4BTA3.9-120 39xx 4
TDDA 120@2500 302@1500 725 30.1 35.6
6AT3.4 3434 6
TDD 120@3600 221@2000 665 32.9 31.7
6BT5.9-160 59xx 6
TDD 160@2500 400@1500 880 39.6 36.8
6BTA5.9 59xx 6
TDDA 180@2500 451@1500 905 40.7 36.8
18.2.3.1 GM Diesel Specs
------------------------
YEARS
DISP STOCK TORQUE COMP
MODEL AVAIL
(CC) CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO
5.7L 57xx
V8 ID ..... ...... ......
6.2L -94 62xx
V8 ID 150 250@2500 ......
6.5L 94- 65xx
V8 ID 170 290@2000 ......
6.5LT (L56) 94-
V8 TID 180@3400 360@1700 21.5:1
6.5LT (L65) 94-
V8 TID 190@3400 385@1700 21.5:1
18.2.3.2 GM Diesel Swap Specifics -
Aaron Leach (AARONL@corel.com)
------------------------------------------------------------------
The GM 6.2L mounts very
similarly to a GM gas V8. The back of the engine has
the same bolt pattern as
the 350
Most of the same
directions that come with the small block kit from Advance
The engine can mount so
that it is about three inches from the radiator, and
then the centerline of the
engine was placed at 12 inches from the left inside
frame rail to the center
of the engine--essentially the same as the small block
Chevy engine. One thing to
remember is that the 6.2 is a wide engine. The stock
steering box has to be
removed to make the engine fit. Installing a power
steering conversion, such
as the Saginaw box is required. Also, because of the
width of the engine, the
steering shaft should be lengthened an extra eighteen
inches. That prevents the
U-joint from hitting the exhaust manifold. The
cruise control mechanism
can be removed, and part of the air intake system must
be removed for hood
clearance. There is a spacer between the engine mount and
the block that is needed
to fit the engine properly.
What You Can Use, and What
You Cannot
Here is a list of things
you can use with the conversion, and what you cannot:
-you can use all GM Chevy
transmissions: TH350, TH400, 700R4, SM420, SM465, etc.
-you cannot use a gas
engine torque convertor, you have to use a diesel one.
-you cannot use a gas
engine flex plate or flywheel. The diesel's is balanced.
-Also, when using a flex
plate, there are two kinds, a lock-up type, and a non
lock-up type. Each uses a
different torque convertor.
-the injector pump has an
overflow tube. You will need to run a return line to
the fuel tank.
You will want to install a
diesel tachometer. These run off the alternator.
Diesels use their own
starters--you will not be able to use a gas engine one.
Diesels also use their own
engine cooling fan.
One battery will probably
fit, but two might be difficult. You can get a box
made that fits behind you
seat that will hold two batteries.
It might be wise to
already have a lift installed because the drive line might
hit the oil pan.
With the automatic
transmissions, you might have drive line problems in the
rear. My drive line for
the TH350 is going to be about twelve inches. The TH400
and the 700R4 are about 5
inches longer than the TH350.
You will need a filter
that takes water out of diesel fuel.
The diesel RPMS top out
around 3500. An over drive transmission, higher
differential gears, or
larger diameter tires will help with this situation.
Wiring the engine up
The engine is quite easy
to wire up. First of all, the wires going to the
starter are the same as
they are on the gas engines. Secondly, the coil wire
goes to the injector pump.
There are two prongs on the injector pump. Which ever
prong you put the coil
wire on, you will need to jump a wire from there onto
the other prong. You can
throw the coil away, you will not need it. Also, the
wire that went from the
coil to the distributor is not needed.
To wire the glow plugs up,
you can run a wire to a push button switch, then
from there to two 70 amp
relays, one for each side of the engine. If you don't
want to hold the button
down to control the glow time, you can add a timer
relay.
You can also hook this up
to the ignition. The only difference is that the
ignition would be your
push button switch part of it.
18.2.4 Nissan Diesel Specs
--------------------------
DISP
TORQUE COMP
MODEL (CC) CYL FUEL
BHP FT-LB RATIO
SD33T 3245 6 T?D
101@3100 175@2200 21:1
MODEL BORE STROKE
DRY WT LENGTH WIDTH HEIGHT
(IN) (IN)
(LBS) (IN) (IN) (IN)
SD33T 3.27 3.94
FUEL
ID - Indirect
Injection Diesel
DD - Direct Injection
Diesel
T - Turbo
A - Aftercooled
(erroniously called Intercooled by most)
8.3 Gas Engine Conversions
---------------------------1
Ok, you've put up with my
compression-ignitionist rantings for a while and have
made it into the section
that interests most people. There are some advantages
to replacing your F series
motor with a newer V8. The V8 weighs 250lb less than
the F, which leads to a
big improvement in your power to weight ratio. Because
the newer motor is a
little more effecient, and also because of the weight
savings, you will get
improved fuel economy. The engine that is most commonly
swapped into a Land
Cruiser is the venerable Chev 350. Other conversions, in
approximate decreasing
order of quantity are Chev 307, 383, 305, 400, 327, Ford
302/5.0l, Chev 454,
Pontiac 455, Chev 4.3l V6. Swapping a Chev 235 I6 into a
Cruiser is pointless
because it is basically identical to an F. The Chev 292
may be a worthwhile swap
for those who want that "authentic straight-six feel"
Unfortunately, this engine
is quite fuel hungry like the 2F and parts aren't
nearly as common as for
the 350.
Even though distributor
placement at the front of Ford engines is probably
better than the rear
placement of Chev small block distributors, and the Ford
302 weighs 80lb. less than
a 350, Chev engines are probably used ten times more
frequently. The big
reason is parts availability. While ford was wandering
around in Windsor and
Cleveland, the 350 changed very little over the years.
For that reason, a plain
350 is probably the easiest choice for an engine
conversion. There are a
variety of conversion kits available and the engine can
be found in both
carburated and fuel injected forms. For those looking for more
low-end torque, a 383 is
probably the best choice. A 383 is a 350 that's been
bored .030 over and uses a
400 crank and 350 connecting rods. A 383 is superior
to a 400 because the bore
of the 400 is too large. There's no space left
between the cylinders for
water jackets so cooling is compromised.
There are only a couple of
reasons for putting a motor bigger than a 383 or even
building a high horsepower
350. They are if you intend to put on tires that are
so large that re-gearing
to return the tire:gear ratio to something approaching
a stock level is
impossible, if you drive your truck in deep mud, snow, or sand,
or if you never quite
managed to get that adolescent desire to try to peel your
tires off your rims out of
your system.
On the other side of the
coin, the 4.3l Chev 6 is probably a little too small
for even a 40 series.
Key engine design features
to keep in mind are the bore and stroke. Engines
with a larger bore than
stroke (oversquare) are better suited to high-RPM
operation, while engines
with a larger stroke than bore are better for lugging
down at low RPMs. A
longer stroke also allows for a lower compression ratio and
lower octane fuel.
Once you have decided
which engine you want to use, the next step is to choose
an adapter type.
Depending on the engine you have selected, you can either
use a bellhousing from
Advance Adapters, a Ranger torque splitter, or a Mark's
Adapter.
In order to use an Advance
Adapter bellhousing, the flywheel from the engine
manufacturer must be used.
In the case of small block engines, the
manufacturer's heavier
truck type flywheel is required and is advantageous
because it will allow for
smoother operation of the engine at lower revs. The
advantage of using an
Advance Adapter bellhousing is the low cost of the adapter
itself. This savings
leads to higher expenses elsewhere though. Because the
Advance Adapter
bellhousing is approximately the same thickness as the stock
Toyota one, the engine,
transmission, and transfercase will have to be shifted
forward to all sufficient
firewall clearance. The movement of the transfercase
will require modified
driveshafts. The use of the Advance Adapter bellhousing
will also require a custom
clutch only offered by Advance Adapters. It's
probably best not to use a
clutch that is not univerally available.
The use of a Ranger Torque
Splitter provides several advantages. Foremost, you
get a 27% overdrive for
lower revs on the highway. You can use a stock
Chev/Ford bellhousing and
clutch. The Torque splitter functions as an adapter.
it can be ordered with
Chev or Ford bolt and inputshaft patterns on the front
and Toyota input shaft
patterns on the back. Finally, the 7-8" of extra
thickness of the Ranger
means that driveshaft modifications are not required.
The Ranger is said to put
the fan a little closer to the radiator than ideal
though.
The third option is the
Mark's adapter. Their kit consists of a bellhousing and
flywheel that are 3-1/2"
deeper than stock. The extra depth places the engine
perfectly with no
driveshaft modifications. The extra thick flywheel also
provides extra damping to
allow for smoothly lugging down the revs in the rocks.
18.3.1 GM Engine specs
----------------------
YEARS DISP
STOCK TORQUE COMP
MODEL AVAIL (CC)
CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO
231 B ..... .... V6
G ..... ........ .....
252 B ..... .... V6
G ..... ........ .....
235 C ..... .... I6
G 120-150 ........ .....
250 CPOB ..... .... I6
G ..... ........ .....
262 75-76 .... I6
G 110 ........ 8.5:1
265 55-57 .... V6
G 162-225 ........ 8.0:1
265 C 94- 4343 V6
G 163 ........ .....
265 C(HO) 94- 4343 V6
G 200 ........ .....
267 C 79-81 .... V6
G 115-125 ........ .....
283 C 57-67 .... V8
G 135-230 ........ 8.5:1-11.0:1
283FI
292 C ..... .... I6
G ....... ........ .....
302 C 67-69 .... V8
G 290 ........ 11.0:1
305 C 76-94 .... V8
G 125-230 ........ 8.5-9.0
307 C 68-73 .... V8
G 115-195 240@2000 8.5-9.0
327 C 62-69 .... V8
G 150-235 ........ 8.8-11.3
327FI C .... V8
EFI-G 370
350 C 67- .... V8
G 145-300 300@2000 8.5-11.0
350 C ..... .... V8
EFI-G ....... ........ .......
383 C NEVER .... V8
G ....... ........ .......
400 C 70-80 .... V8
G 150-180 ........ 8.5-9.0
454 C ..... .... V8
G ....... ........ .......
455 P ..... .... V8
G ....... ........ .......
500 V ..... .... V8
G ....... ........ .......
MODEL BORE STROKE
WEIGHT LENGTH HEIGHT
(IN) (IN)
(LBS) (IN) (IN)
235 C 3.56 3.96
262 C 3.671 3.10
...... ...... ......
265 C 3.730 3.00 550
25 26-1/2
267 C 3.500 3.48
...... ...... ......
283 C 3.875 3.00 550
25 26-1/2
302 C 4.000 3.00 550
25 26-1/2
305 C 3.736 3.48
...... ...... ......
307 C 3.875 3.25 550
25 26-1/2
327 C 4.000 3.25
...... ...... ......
350 C 4.000 3.48 550
25 26-1/2
400 C 4.125 3.75 550
25 26-1/2
B - Buick
C - Chev
O - Oldsmobile
P - Pontiac
V - Cadillac
18.3.2 Ford Engine Specs
------------------------
YEARS DISP
STOCK TORQUE COMP
MODEL AVAIL (CC)
CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO
260 V8
G 164@4400 258@2200 8.8:1
289 64- V8
G 200-271 282-312 9.3:1
300 4916 I6
G -150 ..... .....
302 68- 4948 V8
G 210-235 295-318 8.5:1
302 4948 V8
EFI-G ..... ..... .....
351W 69- .... V8
..... 250-300 355-380 8.6:1
351C .... V8
..... ..... ..... .....
351M .... V8
..... ..... ..... .....
460 .... V8
EFI-G 250 355.. .....
MODEL BORE STROKE
WEIGHT LENGTH HEIGHT
(IN) (IN)
(LBS) (IN) (IN)
260 3.8 2.87
289 4 2.87
302 4 3.0 425
351W 4 3.5 510
351C 550
351M 550
400M 550
460
18.4 Transmission Swaps
-----------------------
The three domestic
transmissions most commonly swapped into a Land Cruiser are
the SM420 (used in Chev
trucks until 1969) SM465 (used in Chev trucks from 1969-
1992) and NV4500 (used in
GM and Dodge trucks from 1992-)
MODEL MAKER OFFERED
IN DATES SPD 1ST 2ND 3RD 4TH 5TH R
SM420 Muncie GM Trucks
47-67 4 7.05 3.57S 1.70S 1.00S 7.05
SM465 Muncie GM Trucks
68-92? 4 6.54 3.58S 1.70S 1.00S 6.09
NV4500 New GM Trucks
92-94 5 6.34S 3.44S 1.71S 1.00S 0.73S 6.34
Vent- Dodge Trucks
92- 5 5.61S 3.04S 1.67S 1.00S 0.74S 5.61S
ure gear GM Trucks
94- 5 5.61S 3.04S 1.67S 1.00S 0.74S 5.61S
MODEL LENGTH BORE
(IN) (IN)
SM420 10.5 4.686
SM465 12.0 5.125
NV4500 12.0 5.125
Legend
S following a gear ratio
indicated synchronized
The SM420 is probably the
most popular transmission swap for a LC because of its
extremely low first gear.
It also has the advantage of being virtually a direct
bolt-up to a three Toyota
3 speed bellhousing. All that is required is some
minor drilling, a pilot
bearing adapter, and a throwout bearing sleave, and an
adapter and spud shaft to
go between the transmission and transfer case. The
biggest disadvantage with
the SM420 is parts availability. Because the
transmission hasn't been
made in almost 30 years, many of the parts have been
discontinued. Adapting
the transmission to a truck that formerly had a 4 speed
transmission is also a bit
more involved, requiring either an adapter
bellhousing or a modified
3 speed bellhousing to be fitted.
The bolt pattern and bore
of the SM465 is different so it will not bolt up to
either the 3 speed or 4
speed bellhousing. Although it has a higher first gear
ratio, this transmission
definitely a better than the swap for those removing a
Toyota 4 speed because the
parts will be readily available from your local GM
dealer. The SM465 is also
somewhat beefier than the SM420.
The NV4500 is probably the
ultimate domestic transmission. It has both granny
low and overdrive in a
package that is approximately the same length as an
SM420. It is built to
handle high horsepower and torque so the internals are
very strong. The big
drawback for this transmission is that because it is so
new, it is very rare in
junkyards. It is also extremely popular which drives
the price up. The early
GM unit is the hardest to find. Probably the ultimate
setup is the Early GM/Late
GM and Dodge hybrid which gives you the low first
gear of the early GM unit
combined with the better third gear ratio and
synchronized reverse of
the Late GM/Dodge transmission.
Of course, all the above
mentioned transmission swap will require driveshaft
length changes.
If you swap a domestic
transmission in along with a domestic engine, matters are
simplified. You just have
to find the domestic bellhousing that will fit your
engine and has the correct
bore for your desired transmission.
18.5 Transfer Case/Axle Swaps
-----------------------------
Swapping a non-Land
Cruiser transfer case into your truck is a difficult
proposition. This is due
to the fact that all but the very early Land Cruiser
axles have both
differentials offset to the passenger's side. Virtually all
domestic vehicles have the
front differential offset to the driver's or
passenger's side while the
rear differential is centred. If you use a domestic
transfer case with Land
Cruiser axles, you will wind up with a two-plane
driveshaft angle.
Apparently, the axle housing can be reversed to decrease the
angle, but this is still a
very unadvisable setup.
If a domestic transfer
case is required, the axles should be replaced as well.
Dana 60s and up are the
only axles that are comparable/superior in strength to
the stock Land Cruiser
axles. Reverse-cut Dana 60s have the pinion located
above the centreline of
the ring gear and will result in somewhat improved
driveshaft angles in
trucks with a great deal of lift.
19.0 Maintenance/Modifications
==============================
19.1 Aluminum Tubs - Rob Mullen
(RAMullen@wimsey.com)
-----------------------------------------------------
I've got an Aluminum tub
on my Cruiser and I love it. It sure beats having
things fall out the rust
holes in the back and getting a spray of water on you
from where the rear wheel
wells used to be :) There are two schools of thought
when it comes to tubs:
Retain the steel sills (my
style)
Description/Materials:
The steel sills around
the doors and along the top of the tub were retained
(the remainder of the
sheet metal is cut away with an air nibbler) Mine goes
from the firewall back.
My tub is all 1/8" Aluminum plate with bits of
6061-T6 1/8" wall
structural (round corner) square tubing/channel for body
mounts and gas tank
strap mounts.
Cost:
Mine cost me CA$2400
(US$1700+/-) but that included a new fuel tank & sender,
and I also got a
"better shape than mine" hard top thrown in for free (a
one-time lucky break
for me) Keep in mind that my tub was for the body style
with the gas tank under
the floor and required quite a bit of bending on a
hydraulic brake to make
the right shape.
Advantages:
+ Doors and hard top
fit properly
+ Slightly more body
rigidity
+ Sides are held on
with pop rivets + a few tack welds and can be easily
removed/replaced if
damaged
Disadvantages:
- Steel can continue to
rust along the edges until pop rivets securing
aluminum to steel
pull out (requires finding some steel sqaure tubing with
the same OD as the
sill's ID shoving it in and re-riveting--I'm probably
going to have to do
this soon on the driver's side at least)
- not a "bolt-on"
installation - requires a reasonably skilled sheet metal
worker to cut old
steel away nicely
- not widely available.
Most tubs in this style are home made/made by local
Cruiser gurus and are
therefore harder to find (Mine was built by a
Cruiser fanatic that
used to make aluminum boats for a living)
All aluminum (style
manufactured in Kelowna--Aqualu/Land Cruiser Solutions)
Description/Materials:
One note: The tubs I'm
talking about is made by a Kelowna, B.C. company
called Aqualu
Industries. These are sold east of the Mississippi by
Land Cruisr Solutions.
Anyways, on with the description:
The entire tub behind
the "drip rail" that runs down in front of the door
hinges is hacked away.
The sills are replaced with 6061-T6 1/8"
round-edge... which
leads to the door/hard top fit problems described by Gary
Bjork. Here's a
quickie ascii illustration of the cross-section of the lower
part of the door and
sill to show you:
Stock
doors/sills Kelowna style body
| |
| |
|Door|
| |
| __/
| __/
| |O ||
| |O +------+ Legend
|_|O / |__
|_|O | | O = Rubber Seal
/ |
| |
/ Sill |
| |
|______|
|______|
|
|
|
|
As you can (hopefully)
see, the stock doors fit flush into the body whereas
the "Kelowna
Style" stick out by an amount equivalent to the width of the
bottom edge of the door
(about 1/2"?) The hard top also sticks out by this
by the width of the
bottom edge. The tub is made from material thinner than
1/8" (3/32",
I think) and is available with both checker and smooth sides.
If you only run a soft
top and soft doors, the fit problems I described above
will not really be
noticable.
There is now a version
of the tub available with "factory-style" sills. It
costs extra though.
Cost:
NO SILLS
SILLS
EARLY-78 CA$1955
(~US$1396) CA$2475 (~US$1768)
79-84 CA$2346
(~US$1675) CA$2865 (~US$2046)
Advantages:
+ minimal cutting -
true bolt-on installation
+ don't have to worry
about sills rotting away
+ if your're truck has
been rolled/crashed you instantly get a straight tub!
+ much easier to move
to a newer/better Cruiser if you buy one at a later date
Disadvantages:
- door/top fit problems
outlined earlier (if you cheap out and don't get
sills)
- completely welded
together - if you tweak it, you have to live with it
So there you have it,
everything you ever wanted to know about aluminum tubs
(but were afraid to ask)
ALMOST. Here's a few details that apply to both styles:
Aluminum is MUCH more
difficult to paint than steel. A good finish would
probably require going to
a high-end paint shop (Your local "Oh-Oh, better get a
new paint job" place
probably couldn't handle it)
Aluminum tubs can't really
be fixed if they're severly kinked/dented (or at
least not as well as a
conventional steel sheet metal body. I talked to my
insurance agent about mine
and she thought that replacing my tub in the event of
an accident would be
covered under the same heading as aluminum pick-up
canopies.
Aqualu makes aluminum
front fenders, but they were kind of ugly IMHO. Because
they could only roll and
not stamp the fenders, they couldn't duplicate the
compound curves at the
front of the fender and just left off the last little
curve on the front of the
fender. They sold for something like CA$395 a pair
Finally, for those of you
that don't like aluminum, I have seen a replacement
tub made out of 3/16"
STEEL! I suspect it would have made the truck into a
complete slug, however
resistance to small arms fire would be a huge advantage
to anyone living in
LA/Washington/Detroit :)
19.2 Breather Relocation - Rob
Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
-----------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: It's been a while
since I've done this and may have forgotten
something, also, this is
the last article I typed in for v1.0 so I'm pretty
fried. If I say something
that seems wrong, it probably is. Anyone who
tries these directions,
drop me a line and let me know if I missed anything.
Depending on what year and
model of Cruiser you own, you may have the pop
valve axle breathers
mounted directly to the axle housing. If you truck ever
sees any water off-road
(or good flooding on road) this set-up is inadequate.
The check valves always
become clogged. This either allows water to stream
into your axle housing, or
worse, does not allowing your axle to breathe which
results in blown seals
which THEN let water in. For water over bumper height,
even Toyota's breather
hoses that reach up to the frame height aren't enough.
Fortunately, replacing
your breathers is both simple and cheap. First you
must remove the check
valves. Before doing this, ensure the area around the
breather is free of
mud/grime--you don't want to have any grit falling into
the breather hole and
wearing your ring and pinion. Once the valves are out,
check the threads to
determine if they're fine or coarse (all breathers after
1971 are fine thread.
Some rear breathers from prior to 71 are coarse. I am
not sure if this procedure
would work with coarse threads so attempt it at
your own risk.
Temporarily pop the valves back in and go to your hardware
store.
You will need 2 1/4"
brass right angle NPT to compression fittings, 2 plastic
ferrules and hose inserts,
15' of 1/4"OD nylon hose (poly will do in a pinch, a T
junction with compression
fittings on all sides, a whole whack of small
*zip-ties, a 10mm tapping
die (same thread as your breathers), some 3/8"
washers, 2 M10x1.25 nuts,
3" of 1/4"ID rubber hose (like fuel line), 2 1/4" hose
clamps, cutting fluid (oil
will do in a pinch), Blue Loctite 242, and
(recommended but not
required) 15' of corregated wire loom covering that will
fit over the pipe. If
your axles are the style where the rear breather comes
up through the brake line
T, you will also need a 1-1/2" length of 3/8" brass
pipe (often available as a
pre-threaded length) and a fitting for joining the
pipe to the right angle
fitting.
The following procedure
applies to situations where the brass pipe and coupler
are not required.
1. Re-cut the NPT threads
on the angle fittings with a 10mmx1.25 die. If you
don't have a die
handle, you can always use a wrench, but this increases
your chances of
cross-threading. Don't forget 1 turn forwards, 1/2 turn
back, and use lots of
cutting fluid. You may have a couple of threads that
are messed up because
of interference between the metric and NPT threads,
but it should still be
strong enough.
2. Coat the threads on the
fitting with Blue Loctite
3. Thread a M10x1.25 nut
onto the right angle fitting.
4. Thread the right angle
fitting into the axle until it won't go any farther
(DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN --
the brass is nowhere near as strong as steel)
5. Back the fitting off
until it's pointing in the direction you want.
6. Tighten the bolt.
The following procedure
applies to those who bought the brass pipe and coupler
1. Coat the coupler's
threads with Blue Loctite. Thread the pipe into one end and
the right angle fitting
into the other.
2. Re-cut the threads on
the pipe as per #1 above. Cut approximately 5/16" of
threads.
3. Coat the pipe's threads
with Loctite
4. Thread the assembly
into the axle. (If tightens pointing in the wrong
direction, remove it
and try shimming it with a washer so it points in the
right direction)
Once the angles are in
place, you can put on the hose.
1. Remove the compression
nut and brass ferrule from the right angle fitting.
2. Plan out the routing of
your hose. It is best to have it travel up along
the brake lines, that
way there is less of a chance of the hose being
damaged by branches etc
under the truck. A good location for the T is
right against the brake
line L that is mounted on the frame below the
master cylinder. True
hard-core types who don't mind the smell of gear
oil can route the line
that comes off the T through the firewall into the
passenger compartment
for maximum fording ablility. Otherwise if you're
not equipped with a
snorkle, plan to send the line up along the fire wall
to hood height. Those
lucky enough to have snorkels should route the line
up the back side of the
snorkle.
3. Once you've planned the
route, cut the plastic tubing and loom cover to the
required lengths.
4. Slide the compression
nut and a plastic ferrule onto each end of the hose.
5. Place the hose inserts
inside each end of the hose to prevent it from being
crushed when you
tighten the compression nuts.
6. Slide the hose into the
angle fitting, and tighten the compression nut.
7. Route the hose along
the frame of the truck and attach the other end to the
T.
8. Snap the loom cover
over the hose and zip tie it securely to the frame or a
brake line along its
whole length.
9. Place the compression
nut ferrule and hose insert onto one end of the hose
that is to be routed up
along the firewall/into the passenger
compartment/up the
snorkle and tighten it down.
10. Thead/stuff the one of
the old breather pop valves into the rubber hose
and clamp it securely
with a hose clamp.
11. Fit the other end of
the rubber hose over the top of the plastic tubing
and clamp it with the
second hose clamp.
Now your axles are
waterproof (if the seals are good :) Unfortunately, there
are still two breathers
you must worry about for SERIOUS fording. They are on
the transfer case and
steering box. Unfortunately, I haven't gotten around to
relocating these yet. All
that will be required when I do this is splicing
two more T's into the
plastic tubing. The steering box should require a
procedure identical to the
one outlined here, but I think the transfer case
may have a different sized
breather plug and require something more creative.
19.3 G.M. HEI distributors for F/2F
Motors - David Dannenberg (suedave@pond.com)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately, what I
present here will not allow a one banana mechanic to go to
spend twenty bucks at a
junk yard then an hour under the hood and end up with an
HEI in his FJ--not one
that works anyway. This conversion can be either
relatively simple or
relatively cheap, but not both at this point. I'll explain
below, but first a word or
two about the shortcomings of the Toyota ignitions
and the advantages of the
HEI.
The Toyota ignitions have
one or a number of disadvantages, depending which
particular distributer one
is stuck with. The early units feature a points
system, and a pretty lousy
points system at that. Compared to a later GM points
system for example they
are a pain to set, and not of very good quality. Even
good points systems have
the disadvantage of physical wear of the contacts
themselves as well as the
rubbing block which makes contact with the lobe on the
distributer shaft causing
them to open and close
Another aside: converting
a Toy points to electronic. One can get around the
problem of having points
by obtaining a conversion kit from Crane Cams. This
kit consists of a Hall
effects switch utilizing some sort of electronic gizmo to
do the job of the points
(which is to send an electronic pulse back to the coil
causing the field to
collapse and the coil's stored energy to be sent out the
wire to the distributer).
This kit costs around a hundred bucks I think and is
reputedly about a one
banana installation. However, even conversion of the stock
distributer to electronic
leaves one with at least one and possibly two other
inherent shortcoming of
the Toy ignition.
The Toy coil is pretty
poor. It is comparatively weak (20,000 volts or
something). The other
problem with the Toy coil is that it doesn't saturate
quickly enough so that at
high RPMs it is not fully saturated when the point
closes and causes it to
discharge its energy. That is, at high speed, one
doesn't even get the
measly 20KV or whatever it is designed to produce. The
performance problem
created by this is high speed miss--failure of some of the
plugs to fire every time
they are supposed to. This may or may not be very
noticeable in the pedal
except maybe when under load such as when trying to
blast on over that
mountain pass, but it could be noticeable at the tail pipe
(if one had a sniffer I
suppose) and at the gas pump--well, the gas gauge
anyway.
The last problem with some
Toyo ignitions, especially late electronic ones, is
that they are, in common
parlance, "smogged". That is, their advance curves are
not set up to optimize
performance as determined by acceleration, torque, and
horse power, but to
optimize emissions, especially at idle. Without getting into
the details and nuances of
this (which, like all of this, I have only
rudimentary understanding
of), the smogged distributors are set up so that at
low RPMs the ignition is
actually vacuum retarded, and such that the vacuum
advance does not occur
until much higher RPMs than would be optimal. For
practical purposes this
translates to that frightening feeling in the pit of the
stomach one gets when
trying to merge or pass on the highway in an FJ60--you
know, 0-60 in five minutes
while all you can see in your rear view mirror are
one headlight and the
letters A C K written backwards across part of an enormous
radiator grille.
The GM HEI can resolve all
of these problems! (and it makes Julienne fries).
I'll address them one at a
time. The points issue becomes moot because, as the
name implies, the HEI is
all electronic. Again without getting into details that
are both out of my depth
unimportant for the purposes of this discussion, an
electronic ignition
accomplishes communication between the distributer and the
coil with an electronic
(read: not mechanical) device. The guts of the
distributer contain a
commonly available module held in place with two
fasteners, a condenser,
and a field coil. None of these parts move, so in
theory at least, none of
them wear. The only moving part is the rotor (and
obviously the shaft to
which the rotor is fixed).
An aside: It is often said
that the problem with an electronic ignition is that
if it does fail, you are
dead in the water (sometimes literally) with no hope of
repair, whereas with a
points system you always have the option of adjustment or
replacement of components
in the field (or stream, as the case may be). There is
truth to this, but
distorted truth. It is true that one can't pop open the
ignition module (a thing
about the size of a pack of Dentine--Chicklets for
those of you in SA--with
two wires and two screw holes), jam a wrench in there
and fix it. But,the points
system is many times more likely to fail in the first
place. Second, it is no
big deal to carry a spare module, field coil, and
condenser in your glove
box--even ones stripped off a junked vehicle. It is true
that new these parts cost
considerably more $ than a set of points, but over
time one is unlikely to
use one module for every, say, 50 sets of points and
the ones from the junk
yard will likely get you home.
The second problem with
Toy ignitions, that of weak spark and inadequate
saturation, is solved by
the HEI coil. According to the guys at K&A in
California (see below),
the HEI produces 90,000 volts (!) consistently at any
RPM that we could imagine
generating in one of our engines. I have also heard
that the HEI coil produces
60,000 volts or even only 45,000 volts which is still
double what the Toy puts
out. This translates to hotter spark which translates
to better cold starting,
better running and adios to high speed miss. This alone
is something one can feel
in the pedal (and see in the decreased rate of decent
of the needle on the gas
gauge). With this much energy the spark plugs can be
gapped way open--some
people go as far as 65 or even 85, mine are at 45--which
helps also (I think by
making a bigger and thus more effective spark. Someone
who knows please feel free
to explain this).
Yet another aside: I
suppose that one could, if satisfied with the advance curve
of the stock distributer,
but desiring electronic reliability and HEI umph,
perform the hall effects
(Crane Cams) conversion mentioned above, and install
the HEI coil only, along
with good ignition wires and spark plugs and get about
everything the full (coil
and distributer) HEI conversion offers. That'd make it
a two banana $125 job.
Someone try this and report back to us all.
The last Toy problem that
one can resolve with the HEI is that of horrible
advance curve. This is not
solved by anything inherent in the HEI distributer
except that there is such
a wide range of advance parts available--springs and
diaphragms--that the
distributer can be built to do almost anything desired
(even making julien fries
at precisely at 2100 RPMs). This is one of the aspects
of the conversion that
jumps its rating from 2 to almost 4 bananas. It is also
second aspect of the
system that gives it such a great feel (the first being the
voltage discussed above).
Before briefly sketching
the options and methods for converting to the HEI, I
must tell you the
performance gains. I can start cold without choking the engine
(I do use the hand
throttle a bit to facilitate warm up). I have what feels like
way more torque and horse
power. I can accelerate much faster and smoother than
before and maintain speed
more easily. Around town I shift gears much less
frequently. Many corners
and hills that I used to take in second gear I now take
in third, corners and
hills I used to take in third I now take in fourth. In
many more instances than
pre-HEI I can start out from a stop in second gear or
overdrive first without
slipping the clutch. Driving is just so much more
pleasurable. I keep
telling people that with the HEI and the OME I feel like I
have a new vehicle. Those
of you with the OME know what I mean. Now imagine that
dramatic a change in your
engine. (Remember though, that much of this drama is
tied to the advance
curve--if you have a comparatively unsmogged vehicle, your
stock distributer may have
a decent curve already, so the big change will be in
reliability and high RPM
performance, not low end torque and acceleration. Your
challenge will be more to
match your existing curve, not to improve it).
So, I bet you are
wondering how to accomplish this astonishing transformation of
your slugabed TLC into a
rocket ship--well decently performing vehicle anyway.
There are four ways that I
know of. I will describe each in descending order of
cost and ascending order
of reliability and work.
1. K&L Engineering In
Mira Loma California (714) 735-4182 manufactures HEIs
specifically for TLCs.
By manufacture I mean that they take an HEI, strip it
down, wind precisely
engineered advance springs and mill precisely engineered
cams to get the desired
advance curve, then put it on a modified Sun
distributer machine to
check it all out. I believe that they will relocate
the gear as necessary.
They have done many TLCs, and if they have not done
your year and model
they may ask you to send your stock distributer so that
they can check it in
their Sun machine first to learn the factory curve which
they will match and
tweak in the HEI they will build for you. These guys have
been building racing
engines and using HEIs on all sorts of vehicles (VWs
even) for years and
really seem to know what they are talking about.
DISCLAIMER: I have
never actually purchased anything from them and do not
work for or represent
them. I did however pick their brains mercilessly
whilst GMF Bob and I
worked out our own approach to the conversion. The K&L
distributer will cost
in the neighborhood of $300.
2. Toyotas R Us in Salida
Colorodo. (719) 539-7733 also will sell you an HEI
for the TLC. They are
also really nice guys whose brains I picked pretty
thoroughly. They do a
conversion using off the shelf parts and I think charge
around $235 with a
core. As far as I can tell they do not use a distributer
machine or wind springs
or grind cams to match advance curves. I did not get
the feeling when I
spoke with them (1-2 years ago by now) that they had not
done any conversions in
late model Cruisers. I do not think that they swap of
move the distributer
gear, but CHECK WITH THEM, DO NOT RELY ON MY
INTERPRETATION OF
CONVERSATIONS I HAD A LONG TIME AGO. Again, they are real
nice people with a good
reputation. They told me their system works. It is
not, AFIK, and IMHO, as
sophisticated as the work done by K&A. I have not
actually purchased
anything from them, and do not in any way represent them.
3. Wayne Kitter of Up &
Over Innovations in Chester PA (610) 358-3179. He also
offers an HEI for the
TLC. He moves the gear, and sets it up (advance curve)
using off the shelf
components and a Sun machine. Sounds like he knows what he
is doing.
4. Do it yourself. If you
have been reading through all this expecting to come
upon step by step part
by part instructions now is your time to be
disappointed. If you
are expecting to get the general idea and be pointed in
the right direction to
get started, I hope and intend that the following will
be useful to you.
The swapping of GM parts
onto F and 2F engines is possible because the F was
essentially a "metricized"
GM 225.
The distributer is caused
to rotate by a gear on its shaft which engages a gear
on the engine's cam shaft.
The tip of the distributer shaft also turns the oil
pump. A 1977 CHEVROLET
NOVA DISTRIBUTER will fit the 2F engine block in all
respects. However, the
gear on the Nova distributer is located in a slightly
different place than the
Toyota one. So the FIRST STEP, after getting a good
reliable rebuilt '77 Nova
distributer or getting a junked one and crossing your
fingers IS TO RELOCATE THE
TOYOTA DRIVE GEAR TO PRECISELY THE SAME PLACE ON THE
GM DISTRIBUTER SHAFT AS IT
WAS ON THE TOYOTA SHAFT. Use a caliper. Go to a
machine shop. Do not mess
around with this. I can tell you from painful
experience that a few
thousandths of an inch of difference in location is plenty
enough to create force on
the shaft pulling it down into the field coil
gradually wearing through
the insulation until it suddenly and catastrophically
shorts out. Not big fun.
Now that you have
relocated the gear, the next step is to obtain or fabricate
some kind of clamp to hold
it in place. Straightforward--eyeball the situation
and make something or ask
at the parts source (store or junk yard) for something
that will work
Now the real fun begins.
The advance curve on the '77 Nova is not correct for
the TLC (at least it was
not for mine). So get out a vacuums gauge and
tachometer and chart your
advance under various conditions with various commonly
available springs and
advance diaphragms (GM makes them incrementally from
something like 5-25
degrees) and at various static timing settings. Watch your
temperature gauge too as
you road test it. I can tell you--again from painful
experience--that if the
timing is too far retarded you can run hot enough that
it simply shuts down, even
though it is smooth and the only other problem is
lack of power (like duh, I
know now). And of course too far advanced and it'll
knock like crazy and you
could even crunch a valve. Eventually you will hit upon
a combination that will
work for your vehicle. It will help to chart the
performance of your stock
unit too. This is already charted to some extent in
the back of the Toyota
engine manual. This is the science and voodoo of this
project and is what the
folks at K&L do on their machine. Personally, I think
that is well worth 300
bucks, except that you are deprived of the pleasure of
eventually getting it
right yourself.
I haven't mentioned the
coil in awhile. Some HEI systems had the coil mounted on
the distributer cap, some
remotely. They are (for practical purposes),
electronically equivalent.
In an FJ60, a remote coil must be used because the
bigger cap of the cap
mounted units will not clear the line to the oil cooler.
The cap mounted unit may
fit on other models. The coil needs only the hot that
supplies the toy coil, a
ground, and the ignition wire to the cap. Easiest part
of the conversion.
GM F Bob and I have had it
in our heads for a long time to make and market a kit
to take the guess work out
of doing the HEI to TLC conversion. It would contain
stuff to make the gear
relocation simple, and charts for selecting the correct
advance and other parts.
It would be inexpensive, intended more as a service to
the community than to make
a lotta' money. The buyer would source his or her
own distributer and maybe
some other stuff. Unfortunately GM F Bob is too busy
with school and his family
and I am too busy with work and my family to put this
together anytime before
next summer at the earliest.
So if you are very
patient, you may be able to get a kit for under $75 that will
help you do an HEI
conversion yourself in under two hours utilizing locally
available parts. If you
are ambitious, I think that the information I have
provided will get you
started. If you are in a hurry contact K&L and/or Toyotas-
R-Us. If you have any
questions or corrections, fire away and I'll do my best.
One thing nice about this
upgrade to your Toyota is that it is reversible: you
can always go back to your
Toy system in about a half hour's time. No permanent
modifications are made to
your Toy engine.
19.4 Glow Plugs - Rob Mullen
(RAMullen@wimsey.com)
--------------------------------------------------
It is considerably cheaper
to buy your glow plugs from somebody other than
Toyota. NGK makes 2
models that fit B's, 3B's, and 2H's. The part number for
the 24V version is Y197R.
The 12V version is not available in North America.
In the event that your
glow plugs fail far from civilizaton, it is still
possible to start your
truck (as long as it is not too cold outside) Simply
heat a largish pot of
water until it is about to come to a rolling boil. Then
pour the hot water over
the intake manifold and injection nozzles of the truck.
The truck should start as
if you'd actually used the glow plugs. If the truck
still won't start, try
several more pots of water to heat the manifold further.
To test glow plugs, remove
the aluminum bus bar that connects them. With an
Ohm-meter, check
continuity of the plugs. If you detect an open circuit, the
glow plug is no good.
Glow plugs should be replaced as a set. If only one is
replaced, it will put an
unequal load on the others, causing them to burn out
more quickly
19.5 Owner's Manual Maintenance
Schedules - Toyota
---------------------------------------------------
These are from an owner's
manual. Although the manual was (C)Toyota, it
also contained the
instruction on the Table of Contents page:
Please leave this Owner'
Manual in this vehicle at the time of resale. The next
owner will need this
information also.
Probably 75% of the
original owners didn't follow the directions, so I'm going
to reprint this section.
It should also be noted that I don't agree with some
of the times given--they
should be considered as the MAXIMUM duration.
The year of the owner's
manual the information was taken from is indicated next
to the engine model in the
heading. E-mail me (RAMullen@wimsey.com) if your
owner's manual lists
different intervals.
Maintenance operations:
A - Check and/or adjust as
necessary
I - Inspect and correct or
replace as necessary
R - Replace, change, or
lubricate
19.5.1 Gas Powered Vehicles
(2F-1983)
-------------------------------------
SERVICE INTERVAL:
x1000mi 15 30 45 60
x1000km 24 48 72 96
months 12 24 36 48
BASIC ENGINE COMPONENTS
1 Valve Clearance
A A A A
2 Drive belts (1)
. I . I
3 Engine oil & filter
10000mi (16000km) or 8 months
4 Engine coolant (2)
. . . R
5 Cooling & heater
system hoses . . . I
& connections
6 Exhaust pipes &
mountings I I I I
FUEL SYSTEM
7 Idle speed & fast
idle speed (3) A . . .
8 Choke System
. I . I
9 Air Filter
. R . R
10 Fuel lines &
connections . I . I
11 Fuel tank cap gasket
. . . R
IGNITION SYSTEM
12 Spark plugs
. R . R
13 Ignition wiring
. I . I
EMISSIONS SYSTEMS
14 Charcoal cannister
. . . I
15 Fuel evaporative
emission control . . . I
CHASSIS & BODY
16 Clutch Pedal
I I I I
17 Brake pads & discs
I I I I
18 Brake linings &
drums I I I I
19 Brake lines & hoses
I I I I
20 Steering linkage
I I I I
21 Steering knuckle &
chassis grease R R R R
22 Propeller shaft grease
R R R R
23 Wheel bearing grease
. R . R
24 Transmission transfer &
diff. oil I I I I
25 Bolts & nuts on
chassis & body I I I I
(1) After 60000mi
(96000km) or 48mo, inspect every 15000mi (24000km) or 12mo
(2) After 60000mi
(96000km) or 48mo, replace every 30000mi (48000km) or 24mo
(3) After 30000mi
(48000km) or 24mo, adjustment is not necessary
19.5.2 Diesel Powered Vehicles
(B-1978)
---------------------------------------
SERVICE INTERVAL:
x1000mi 15 30 45 60
x1000km 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96
months 6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48
BASIC ENGINE COMPONENTS
1 Valve Clearance
. A . A . A . A
2 Drive belts
. I . R . I . R
3 Engine oil
3750mi (6000km) or 3 months
4 Engine oil filter
R R R R R R R R
5 Engine coolant (1)
. . . R . . . R
6 Cooling & heater
system hoses . I . I . I . I
& connections
7 Exhaust System
I I . I . I . I
FUEL SYSTEM
8 Idle speed &
maximum speed . A . A . A . A
9 Fuel filter
. R . R . R . R
10 Feed pump filter
. . . I . . . I
11 Injection pump governor
diaphragm . I . I . I . I
12 Injection timing &
nozzles . . . I . . . I
13 Air Filter
. I . R . I . R
14 Fuel tank cap, lines, &
connections . . . I . . . I
PREHEATING SYSTEM
15 Glow Plugs
. I . I . I . I
CHASSIS & BODY
16* Brake & clutch
pedal & parking brake I I I I I I I I
17 Brake linings &
drums I I I I I I I I
18 Brake pads & discs
I I I I I I I I
19 Brake lines &
hoses I I I I I I I I
20* Brake fluid level
I I I I I I I I
21 Vacuum pump oil hoses
. I . I . I . R
22 Steering box, linkage,
& gear box oil I I I I I I I I
23* Transmission transfer
& diff. oil I I I R I I I R
24 Wheel bearing grease
. . . R . . . R
25* Steering knuckle &
chassis grease R R R R R R R R
26* Propeller shaft grease
. R . R . R . R
27 Bolts & nuts on
chassis & body I I . I . I . I
28 Emergency locking
retractor system . I . I . I . I
29 Seat Belt Warning
System . I . I . I . I
Under severe driving
conditions, service interval should be shortened as shown
on the table below:
MAINTENANCE ITEM
OP INTERVAL UNDER CONDITIONS
Engine oil
R 3000km A,B,C,D,E
Engine oil filter
R 6000km A,B,C,D,E
Exhaust system
I 6000km A,B,C
Air filter
I 6000km D
Brake linings & drums
I 12000km A,B,C,D
Brake pads & discs
I 6000km A,B,C,D
Steering wheel, linkage
I 6000km C
& gearbox oil
Transmission transfer
R 24000km A,B
& differential oil
Steering knuckle &
chassis grease R 6000km C
Propeller shaft grease
R 12000km A,C
Bolts & nuts on
chassis & body I 12000km A,B,C
CONDITIONS
A: Pulling a Trailer
B: Driving primarily short
diantances
C: Driving on rough roads
D: Driving on dusty roads
E: Driving in extremely
cold weather
18.5.3 Diesel Powered Vehicles
(3B-1983)
----------------------------------------
SERVICE INTERVAL:
x1000mi 15 30 45 60
x1000km 24 48 72 96
months 12 24 36 48
BASIC ENGINE COMPONENTS
1 Valve Clearance
A A A A
2 Drive belts
I R I R
3 Engine oil
3750mi (6000km) or 3 months
4 Engine oil filter
7500mi (12000km) or 6 months
5 Engine coolant (1)
. . . R
6 Cooling & heater
system hoses . . . I
& connections
7 Vacuum pump oil hoses
I I I R
8 Exhaust pipes &
mountings I I I I
FUEL SYSTEM
9 Idle speed & fast
idle speed (2) A A . .
10 Fuel filter
. R . R
11 Feed pump filter
. I . I
12 Injection pump governor
diaphragm I I I I
13 Air Filter
. R . R
14 Fuel lines &
connections . I . I
15 Fuel tank cap gasket
. . . R
CHASSIS & BODY
16* Clutch Pedal
I I I I
17 Brake pads & discs
I I I I
18 Brake linings &
drums I I I I
19 Brake lines &
hoses I I I I
20 Steering linkage
I I I I
21* Steering knuckle &
chassis grease R R R R
22* Propeller shaft grease
R R R R
23 Wheel bearing grease
. R . R
24* Transmission transfer
& diff. oil I I I I
25 Bolts & nuts on
chassis & body I I I I
(1) After 60000mi
(96000km) or 48mo, inspect every 15000mi (24000km) or 12mo
(2) After 30000mi
(48000km) or 24mo, adjustment is not necessary
Whenever you drive
off-road through sand, mud, or water, check the following items as
soon as possible:
- Brake pads and discs
- Brake linings and drums
- Brake lines and hoses
- Steering linkage and
knuckles
- Transmission, transfer,
and differential oil
- Wheel bearings
- Propeller shafts
19.6 Ride Harshness - Rob Mullen
(RAMullen@wimsey.com)
------------------------------------------------------
Short wheel base trucks
ride rough and there is not a whole lot that can be
done about it. There are
a few options to soften the ride though. In order
of "Bang-For-The-Buck"
they are:
1. AVOID ADD-A-LEAFS!
These will make your
Cruiser ride like the axles are bolted directly to
the frame.
2. Keep lifts as small as
possible.
The higher up you are,
the more pitching motions of the truck are
amplified.
3. Use the right shocks.
Unless your truck is
equipped with some bizarre ultra-heavy-weight PTO
winch, stay away from
70-30 high-pressure gas shocks like KYB Gas-A-Justs.
They'll give a brutal
ride. Hydraulic shocks like the cheapest
Trailmasters, or
Rancho RS5000s are better, but their valvings still aren't
right. RS9000s give
you more valving range, but unless you're desert pre-
running, only settings
1-3 are really useful.
4. If you have the Rancho
2.5" 7 leaf Lift, you can improve the ride quality
by modifying the
spring wrappers. Rancho makes the wrappers too tight
for proper spring
movement. If you pry open the outermost sets of
wrappers, the ride
will become softer and your articulation will increase
by several inches.
The remaining three wrappers are sufficient to prevent
spring pack shifting.
5. If your truck is
lifted, you can soften the ride by removing one of the
short leaves.
Unfortunately, removing a leaf will also decrease ride
height and load
capacity.
6. Front shackle reversal
See the section on
shackle reversals.
7. Polyurethane
Bushings/Greasable Shackles
Adding polyurethane
bushings will not soften the ride but will improve
handling by preventing
the springs from twisting relative to the mounts.
Polyurethane is also
required for greasable shackles because dino-based
grease will break down
rubber bushings quickly. Using after-market
shackles will further
improve handling by resisting shackle twisting,
while greasable pins
allow the springs to move more freely to absorb
bumps.
19.7 Saginaw Power Steering
Conversion-Park Owens (rokcrwlr@rapidnet.com)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
The parts for a Land
Cruiser power steering mod the way I did it include:
4 turn/4 bolt box from a
salvage yard
Potential Donors:
Buick LeSabre '65-68
Buick Special '64-69
Camaro '67-74
Chev Passenger '65-70
Chevelle '64-69
Firebird '67-70
Grand Prix '70
Nova '68-69
Olds Jetstar 88 '64-66
Olds F85 '64-69
Pontiac Catalina,
Ventura & 2+2 (w/o air) '67-68
Pontiac Catalina and
Ventura (w/o air) '69-70
Tempest '64-69
pump; reman or salvage
yard
(2) #5-103X U-joints
(Spicer)
(2) #10-4-13 End Yokes
(Spicer)
(1) #10-3-13X Slip Yoke
(Spicer)
(1) #10-4-501SX Steering
Yoke (Spicer)
(3) feet of 3/16"
key shaft
(3) pieces of 3/16"
key stock
(1) #FWG34R Pillow Block
(Federal-Mogul)
(1) Dropped Pitman Arm
(1) Tie Rod
(1) Tie Rod End
(2) Custom hoses
When you remove the
current drag link and center pivot steering assembly, you
can cut the drag link to
26 inches, re-thread, and use for new tie rod between
new pitman arm and
existing Cruiser steering tie rod.
If you or anyone else
would like a copy of the templates I used to enclose the
front frame rails on both
the passenger and driver's side, please send a SASE
envelope to me at:
Dakota Territory Cruisers
P O Box 2238
Rapid City, SD 57709
Notes: A three inch
diameter hole will need to be cut/drilled through the cross
member under the radiator
on the driver's side...does not weaken it in any way.
You'll also need some
spacers made of gas pipe to put in the frame rail before
you enclose it to keep it
from being crushed when you tighten down the ps box.
Also, if you get a 4 bolt
box, you do not need any additional support for the ps
box to the passenger side
frame rail.
19.8 Shackle Reversals-Rob Mullen
(RAMullen@wimsey.com)
-------------------------------------------------------
There are essentially two
schools of design when it comes to Shackle reversals.
The first is a bolt-on kit
that involves some kind of drop bracket at the front
of the frame and shackle
hangers that bolt on below the frame. The second is
more involved and results
on the front perch being mounted directly below the
frame, the shackle hanger
being recessed into the frame, and the knuckles cut
and welded to correct
caster angles.
Why go to all that
trouble? In an effort to improve the high-speed on-road
handling of FJ40s. There
are two principals that help improve the handling of
a vehicle with reversed
shackles.
On a vehicle with the
shackles at the front of the front springs as the spring
compresses vertically, the
axle moves forwards. That means that as a tire hits
an obstacle, the spring
tries to push the tire forwards, harder into the
obstacle. With the
shackles at the back of the springs, when the tire hits an
obstacle, the springs
compress and the axle is essentially allowed to pivot up
and backwards away from
the obstacle. That action results in a less jarring
ride. This action is only
really noticeable at non-low range type speeds, that
is, it makes no difference
to rock crawling type activities.
The second effect of
reversing the shackles is that the momentum of the truck
pulls the springs, rather
than pushing them. The effect is minimized with
perfect bushings and
shackles, but any wear in the bushings will result in the
shackles rocking side-side
which the axle housing to yaw slightly which leads to
vague handling. With the
shackles on the rear of the springs, the shackles are
forced to follow the axle
housing, instead of vice versa, so wear is not as much
of a factor.
There are some drawbacks
with reversing the shackles though. If the axle was
left in the stock position
and the driveshaft was left the stock length, when
the springs compressed,
the axle would move backwards, the splines in the slip
joint would bottom out,
and the output shaft of the transfer case would be
punched out the back. To
avoid this nasty mess, most shackle reversals either
move the axle forwards, or
require that the front driveshaft be shortened. The
problem with simply
pulling the slip joint further apart to make up for the
increased movement of the
axle is less engagement of the splines of the
driveshaft. That will
accelerate spline wear. Diesels naturally tend to wear
out front driveshafts
faster, either due to the vibration, or because of blow-
by tube oil discharge
diluting the grease. Spline life can be maximized by
religious greasing of the
slip joint, but it will never equal that of a stock-
suspension geometry
vehicle.
There are essentially two
styles of shackle reversals available: One designed
by Land Cruiser Advanced
Handling and manufactured by BTB, and a similar kit
from Renegade Fabrication,
and the other offered by Warden's Auto Repair and
FabTech. I'll refer to
the former as a "high" reversal and the latter as a
"low" reversal
for reasons that should become apparent. Both styles have
advantages and
disadvantages. BTB will soon be introducing a third kind of
reversal that is
essentially a hybrid of the two styles and will probably be the
best option.
The high reversal is
basically a bolt-on kit (although it can be welded) It
consists of two
approximately 7" "towers" that attach to the front of
the frame
horns and that serve as
the fixed point for the springs, hangers that bolt to
the underside of the frame
near where the fixed perches used to reside, and
spacers for the bump
stops.
The large "towers"
are required to maintain proper caster angle
despite the fact that the
perches are slung under the frame. If the towers
were shorter, there would
be excessive caster and the vehicle would be
undriveable. The large
towers and perches under the frame effectively lift the
front of the vehicle 1.5"
relative to the rear of the vehicle. The combination
of moving the springs down
from the frame, and dropping the bump-stops serve to
prevent the driveshaft's
slip joints from bottoming out. The main advantage of
the high reversal is that
a competant back-yard mechanic can undertake with
less risk of damaging the
handling of the vehicle. The main disadvantage of
the kit is the towers.
They decrease the approach angle slightly compared to
the stock shackles.
One effect is a bit of a
mixed blessing. If a stock truck smacks the front
spring eye/shackle hard
into a rock, a bent or broken spring will result
because the spring is
being compressed axially to failure. With the high
reversal, if the tower is
smacked into a rock, the spring will not be affected,
but it is possible for the
unboxed passenger's side framehorn to buckle.
The Advanced
Handling/Current BTB and Renegade kits have some key differences.
The
former retains the springs
in the stock direction. The latter flips the springs
around so the military
wraps are at the front, which is superior for a couple
reasons. It means that
the towers don't have to angle as far forwards to move
the axle, which gives a
slightly better approach angle. The towers also don't
have to be quite as low
because the military-wrapped eye of the spring actually
comes up higher than the
un-wrapped eye. Unfortunately, the Renegade kit also
requires 4 degree shims.
The low reversal should
only be attempted by professionals. I think there only
three shops that are
currently doing it: BTB, FabTech, and Warden's Automotive.
It is usually done as part
of a spring-over conversion. With this reversal, the
stock fixed spring perchs
are relocated to the front of the frame horns. A hole
is cut through the frame,
and the tube for the shackle is welded in place. The
allignment of the spring
attachment points rotates the leading edge of the
springs upwards, and if
used with a stock axle housing would lead to excessive
caster. To ensure proper
caster, the knuckles on the axle housing are cut off,
rotated, and re-welded. A
properly done spring-over conversion also requires
the knuckles to be rotated
to tip the pinion up, so two problems are solved at
once. Even with a
spring-under configuration, this style of reversal greatly
improves the approach
angle.
19.9 Silicon Clutch Diagnosis-John
Barron (jbarron@uvic.ca)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Here is a test sequence
for the fan. Apparently it is possible to replace
the fluid in the fan
clutch if the old has leaked out. It is a silicone
oil/silicone based product
from what I have been told, and is avaialable
from Toyota AFAIK. There
is a small valve inside the fan-clutch housing
that opens by way of the
thermostatic (bimetal) coil on the front of the
housing. If the
thermostatic coil is dead then ou will have to replace the
whole unit or rob the part
([if it's even possible] from a wrecking yard
unit). There is also a
bearing in the clutch itself and that can wear out
so beware.
The viscous coupled fan on
Toyota pick-ups and LCs will often change its
sound as it engages and
disengages. It will go from a gentle "whirrring"
sound to a really loud
"roar." Often the loud roar of the fan is noticeable
for a few moments just
after the engine has been started and then it
quietens down
considerably. This is *normal*.
The fan on my LC almost
never engages and so I don't often hear the roaring
noise BUT the fan on my
GF's pick-up (2L-T) does engage willingly and roars
like crazy when the engine
is running a little hotter than normal (ie:
towing monstrous trailers
up mountains in the summer)...the sound is always
associated with a very
prompt drop in the operating temperature of the
engine down to the low
side of normal--at which point the noise subsides.
You can check the fan
clutch operation by spinning [by hand] the fan when
the engine is cold [and
OFF]: it should spin about 1/3 to 1/2 a turn or so
and then stop [sometimes a
bit more]. There should be a bit of resistance
to the movement. If the
engine has just been run and is [a little] warm the
fan will spin quite
freely--this is okay. If the engine is really
*screaming hot* AND there
has been good flow of air over the radiator then
the fan clutch *may* be
engaged and should provide a decent amount of
resistance to spinning.
There are no really
definitive tests for this procedure AFAIK.
[Please note: the
repeating the test sequence too many times in quick
succession will cause the
fan to spin more and more freely as you "test"
it.]
If your fan doesn't ever
engage [no roar] and your engine runs hot you may
have either: a defective
fan clutch OR a blocked radiator OR a defective
thermostat OR a
combination of these three problems. The fan clutch needs
hot air flow over the rad
to engage...
To check rad performance
[in your back yard] you can drive until your
vehicle has reached normal
operating temperature and then mist the rad with
water. If all the water
evaporates then the rad is probably alright [as in
not blocked]. If there are
areas where the water evaporates and others
where it doesn't [cold
spots, usually vertical sections of the rad] then
the rad needs to be
serviced [power flushed or rodded-out]. You can also
check for cold spots by
using your hand but there is often not a lot of
space between the grille
and the rad --> and you could burn your hand. Be
careful.
A rad shop can remove your
radiator and check the flow for you if you think
that it's blocked.
A sticking/dead thermostat
will also cause the engine temperature to be
higher than normal --this
is another issue-- but it will also prevent the
fan clutch from doing its
job as very little hot coolant will be entering
the radiator and no hot
air will be passing over the fan....Your interior
heater will be really hot
[when temp set on high] and your rad cool-ish if
this is the
situation...replace the thermostat with a new one that is right
for the climate where you
live.
Lastly: if the fan clutch
is screwed you may be able to see the silicon
fluid leaking from the
clutch housing...then again, maybe not. A very few
clutch fans I have seen
are permanently engaged [jammed inside, bad bearing
etc...]. In any of these
situations you need to replace it. See your local
Auto-Wrecker, Auto Parts
store or Toyota parts person.
19.10 Steering Wandering-Rob Mullen
(RAMullen@wimsey.com)
--------------------------------------------------------
There are four basic
components in the 40 series steering system that can wear
out/go out of adjustment
and cause steering slop/wandering. They are the tie
rod ends, drag link end,
centre arm, and steering box.
A small amount of play in
each of the tie rod ends can add up to a huge amount
of steering slop. The
only way tie rods should be able to be moved by hand is
to rotate slightly on an
axis that runs through the ball joints at each end of
the rod. Even this motion
should feel "snug." If the tie rod can be moved in
any other direction the
ball joints are probably worn and should be replaced.
The drag link connects to
the pitman arm that comes off the steering box. If
the link can be moved in a
fore-aft motion without the pitman arm moving, the
end is out of adjustment.
The adjustment procedure is fairly simple. Remove
the cotter pin, and with a
very large slot screwdriver tighten the end plug as
far as you can, then back
it out 1/2 turn. Finally, put in a new cotter pin.
The centre arm probably
accounts for most 40 series steering problems. It is
located on the drivers
side in front of the front frame crossmember. To test
if your centre arm is worn
or needs adjustment, have someone turn the
steering wheel back and
forth while you stand in front of your truck. The
centre arm shaft should
only rotate about a vertical axis and not twist
side-side. If the shaft
twists, it may only be out of adjustment. To adjust
it, loosen the lock bolt
on top of the centre arm. Next remove the top cap.
Check inside the arm for
grease. If there is none, chances are you centre arm
is scrap, but it's worth
packing it and re-testing it anyways before you blow
$100 on a re-build kit.
Once you've filled the housing with grease, replace
the top cap. Tighten it
down as far as you can then back it of 1/4 turn.
Then tighten the locking
bolt. Finally, repeat the steering wheel turn test.
If the shaft still twists,
you need a re-build.
The 40 series manual
steering box will only fail to outlive you if one of two
things happen: it's run
without oil, or its not adjusted periodically. The
only way for the oil to
get out is if the sector shaft seal fails. Should
this happen, you can limp
home by packing the housing with grease until you have
time to replace the seal.
Adjustment of the steering box should only be
attempted after reading
the Toyota Steering or Body/Chassis manual.
If you are running larger
than stock tires, you will need a larger than stock
steering dampener to stop
wandering. IMHO, the Old Man Emu stabilizer is the
way to go. It is a VERY
sturdy bolt-in replacement for the stock stabilizer.
The other alternative is
to get something like the Rancho kit or Heckthorn
"Big Yellow"
which require adding brackets to the axle and tie rod. I believe
the OME unit is superior
because it puts the stabilizer higher up where it is
less likely to be smacked
by rocks or submerged in water, it doesn't introduce
any strange off-axis
forces in the tie rods and it doesn't require the cheezy
clamp-on brackets.
Steering can also be
improved by using polyurethane bushings/aftermarket
shackles as detailed in
the section on Ride Harshness.
19.11 Spring Over Conversions-John
Barron (John_Barron@bc.sympatico.ca)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Reverse, completely, your
front leaves. No drilling, military wrap at the
front. Spring in proper
orientation.
Put the spring bushing
eyes into the frame at the back and at the rear of
the front. You will have
to carefully line the front ones up as the frame
is not parallel to the
centreline of the rig there.
Box in the rear frame
where the spring bushing eyes are going to go with
3/16" plate.
Box in the right front
frame horn with 3/16" plate and brace the corner a
bit where it joins with
the first front cross member. Lots of stress here.
The front *differential
flange* should sit at about 10 to 12 degrees after
you have turned the ball
ends. The caster ahould be set to 4 degrees. As it
is now the diff flange is
at about 3 deg (give or take) and the balls at
about 1 degree (give or
take) compared to the perches. SO this means that
the ball ends should be
turned about 12 degrees total (adding 3 deg caster
and turning the diff up to
12 deg by adding 9 degrees of rotation).
Be careful to turn the
knuckle balls without knocking them sideways or you
might affect the camber a
bit. I used a large heavy pipe through the king
pin bearing holes and
tapped it around with a hammer--the pipe applied
pressure to both ends of
the ball at once and should not have messed up the
caster.
You should use a double
cardan rear and front joint although you can get
away without it if you're
careful and only using the front drive at lower
speeds.
If you're careful you will
get about 4" lift over where you are now (going
up by SPOA and down by the
recessing of the bushing eyes). This is not too
much in the big picture
and it gives you the advantage of the SPOA.
One more thing...the rear
springs are often re-drilled so that the rear
axle is located rearward
1.5". This is not necessary if you get a set of
FJ60 series front springs
and use them at the rear instead. Just take a few
measurements to be sure
that this will work. And you will need OME big
bushing to small bolt type
(if your rig is before 1981) to fit the 60
series springs.
Okay, yes they are welded
on to the axle ends but it is not a butt weld.
The balls are sleeved into
the axle housing about two inches. The trick is
to cut the welds out or
cut *just* next to the welds and then turn the
knuckle ends.
Start with a stripped-down
and clean axle housing. Then remove the shock
mounts, the steering stop
flanges, and the brake line brackets if they are
in the way. What I then
did was to take a hose clamp and place it up to the
ball end as close to the
weld as possible, I used this as a guide to scribe
a line right next to the
weld. I then took my 4.5" angle grinder with a
cutting wheel (about 1/8"
thick or so) and I carefully cut into the axle
tube about 3/16" to
1/4" deep around the scribed line. I knew just how deep
to go because I could see
the difference in the metals and a very faint
oily line where the
knuckle ball and the tube meet. Make sure that your cut
is complete all the way
around and that you haven't either gone too deep or
that you missed an area. I
then checked to see that I had made a complete
cut by gently tapping on
the ball with a hammer to move the ball out about
1 or 2 thousandths of an
inch. I then ground the welds around the ball
smooth along an inch or
two of circumference and polished them up with a
sanding disc.
From here I made a little
calculation to see how many millimetres I would
need to turn the balls
around the circumference to get the number of
degrees I needed. I found
the axle that I was using to be about 80mm in dia
so I calculated X number
of mm around the circumference is Y degrees. I
then carefully scribed a
very faint straight line along the axle tube and
the ball and another line
on the axle tube to where I wanted the ball to be
once the desired amount of
turning had been achieved I then punched the
lines with a very fine
sharp punch to be sure they stayed. I then took a
piece of 3.5' by about
1.5" dia tube and put it through the two king pin
bearing holes and gently
applied pressure as I tapped the tube with a
hammer to rotate the
balls. Once the scribed lines lined up I re-did my
measurements and checkd to
see if the amount of turning was correct. A few
taps later it was perfect.
I then double checked the angles with an angle
finder and saw that I was
right to about 1/4 of a degree (the accuracy of
the angle finder).
C=(pi)(dia)
X= (3.14159265)(80)
X=251.3274mm
360degrees/251.3274mm=
1.432394 degrees/mm
251.3274mm/360degrees=
0.6981317 mm/degree
so 12 degrees required
turning is (12)(0.6981317mm)= 8.37758mm around the
circumference
The tires, if you are
going to go above 33", like to 35s, will rub on the
front portion of the rear
wheel well. Moving the axle back eliminates this
trouble and is also good
as it makes the rear shaft a little longer thereby
slightly decreasing the
operating angle of the driveshaft.
19.12 Transmission and Transfer
Removal Tips-Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
The transmission and
transfer case should be removed as a unit, even if you
only need to remove the
transfer case. The transmission will separate easily
from the bellhousing
whereas separating the transfer case from the
transmission usually
requires a puller. Removing the transmission also allows
you to inspect the clutch
and pilot bearing.
Save your old large-eye
rubber spring bushings. They are great for removing
the shifter from your
manual transmission. Instead of using two screwdrivers
to push and twist (and
scratch) the shift lever cap, use the bushing. First,
remove the ball at the end
of the shifter. Slide the bushing (narrow end
down) to the base of the
shifter. Then slide a 19mm or larger box end wrench
(or the end of a large
crescent wrench) down the shifter. Clamp a set of
Vise-Grips on to the
bushing tight enough to twist it, but not so tight as to
clamp it to the shifter.
Then while pushing down HARD on the box-end wrench,
twist the Vise-Grips
clockwise. The shift lever cap should pop right off.
The pilot bearing should
be replaced every time you remove the transmission as
it is an inexpensive part
that can cause major headaches if it fails. The
easiest way to remove the
pilot bearing is by making your own "hydraulic
cylinder." This is
much easier than it sounds. Simply push grease through the
central hole in the
bearing until the cavity behind it is filled. Then push a
cylindrical object that
isn't too much larger than the inner diameter of the
bearing into the hole.
The grease that is displaced should pop the bearing out.
Putting the tranny back in
is a tiresome process. An engine hoist is
essential if you want to
preserve your sanity. Jacking the tranny/transfer
assmebly from below is
virtually impossible. You should buy 3 M12x60x1.25 or so
bolts to help you allign
the transmission. Manouver the tranny into position so
that the input shaft is
through the throw-out bearing and at least one of the
tranny-bellhousing holes
is alligned (the lower passenger side one is a good
place to start) Thread
one of the longer M12 bolts through the tranny and into
the bellhousing (be sure
there's alot of thread going into the bellhousing so it
won't tear out if it has
to take some of the tranny's weight. Next, rotate the
tranny about the bolt
until another hole is alligned. Pop in another of your
M12 bolts in. You may
have to level the tranny a little before you can get the
last bolt in. (Put it on
the passenger's side--it's easier to remove) You
should then be able to
walk the tranny along the bolts until its right up snug
with the bellhousing. It
may take a little push to close the final 1/4" gap.
If there is resistance
before this point, chances are the tranny's input shaft
is not going through the
pilot bearing properly. BE CAREFUL. If you crush the
pilot bearing, you'll have
to repeat the whole removal/installation process!
Once the tranny is in
position, put one of the stock length bolts into the
driver's side top hole.
Finally, remove the allignment bolts one by one and
install the stock bolts.
19.13 V8J40 Cooling Tips - Fred
Welland (fwelland@prcrs.prc.com)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
CONTRIBUTORS ENGINE
FAN RAD USUAL TEMP
Fred Welland 350 (400)
7 BLADE AIRCO 2F 190-230
Karl Klashinsky 350
Electric 5/6 CORE 200-210
Mike Bennett 350
5-CORE X-FLO 200-210
Mike Sousa 350
7 BLADE CADDY 4-CORE 185-200
TEMPERATURE RANGES
The ideal maximum
temperature for a SB Chevy in a Land Cruiser is 200 degrees
Fahrenheit. The maximum
allowable is probably in the 230-240 range.
FAN TYPES
Flex fans are generally
regarded as the poorest type for extreme cooling.
Clutch fans are the next
worst
Electrical fans are the
next. They have two advantages: the ablility to be
manually shut off during
water crossings to prevent splashing, and greater fuel
economy. However, a
single electrical fan does not move enough air--a dual fan
push-pull arrangement may
be better though.
It is generally agreed
that some type of fixed pitch fan with many deep blades
is the best. It will move
the greatest amount of air, however, it will provide
your truck with DC-3 on
takeoff roll sound-effects and will function as an
excellent screw in water
crossings. Some sources of thes monster props are air
conditioning suppliers and
Cadillacs.
WATER PUMPS & HOSES
A high flow water pump can
be good for as much as a 10 degree temperature drop.
For extreme temperature
duty, molded hoses tend to be more rupture-resistant
than flexible ones.
TEMPERATURE SENDER
PLACEMENT
In most cases, the sender
is located on the side of the block between cylinders 1 and 2.
LOWERING STOCK RADIATOR
Piece of cake. I hoped I
could just slide the radiator down in the u-shaped
channel and drill some new
holes. Nope, I couldn't get the radiator down
enough: you might be able
to. If not, take out the radiator and u-shaped
mount. The radiator
mounts to the u-shaped mount and the u-shaped mount sits
on two brackets extending
back from the front crossmember. Figure out where
you want the radiator to
sit (fore and aft) and then cut off enough of the
existing brackets so the
radiator and mount will move straight down. Figure
out how low you want the
radiator to sit and then weld two pieces of angle
iron to the ends of the
brackets to make a new lower shelf for the u-shaped
mount to sit on.
old mount: |__________
new mount: |______
|__________|
|______|
|
| |___
When I got my radiator low
enough, the corner of my u-shaped mount wanted to
occupy the same space as
my steering column shaft. I chopped a section out of
the u-shaped mount for
clearance around the steering shaft and just reinforced
the inside of the mount
with another small piece of steel. Looks funny, but
it works. Bend, cut,
weld, or something so you can reattach the side braces
and your down the road!
FAN SHROUDS
Some claim that a fan
shoud makes all the differnce in the world, however some
there are also those that
say installing a shroud had no effect.
OIL COOLERS
Adding an oil cooler
should make a difference in your engine temperature because
theoretically you now have
two paths for heat to leave the engine. Adding an
oil cooler has the
advantage of increasing your oil capacity (although it will
cost you more for an oil
change)
> Water Wetter is
available from any Super Shops. It's $6.95/bottle. If they
> don't have it in
stock they will order it for you.
Water Wetter is made by
Redline. You can order it directly from them at
1-800-624-7958 if you
can't find it locally. However, it may be subject
to a minimum order. It
works.
19.14 Which Wheels Work? - Rob
Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com)
===========================================================
There are essentially four
"periods" to consider when looking at which wheels
your Land Cruiser will
accept. They are: Early-75 drum brakes, 76-89
disc/finned drum brakes,
90-91 disc brakes, and finally 92+ four-wheel disc
brakes.
With the first two
"periods", the ABSOLUTE maximum backspacing is 3.75"
With
that backspacing, chances
are good that wheel weights that snap onto the lip of
the rim (as opposed to
sticking to the inboard/outboard faces) will rub on the
tie rod ends--especially
with 60 and 70 series.
The IDEAL backspacing is
3.5"--that will give you lots of clearance.
Early drum brakes are
relatively easy to fit wheels wheel to along as the
backspacing is correct.
With disc brakes (as used
on the 40, 60, and 70 series) and finned drum brakes
(as used on the 45 series)
even if you find a wheel with the right backspacing,
there is still a chance it
will not work. This is more of a problem with 16"
rims than 15". The
problem is a result of the cross-section of the "disc" of
the rim. The followin
will sort of illustrate the problem:
|___| |___|
\ \
) \
| AXLE | AXLE
| HUB | HUB
) /
_/_ _/_
| | | |
On disc-brake equipped
trucks, the rounded "indent" of the rim on the left will
hit the calliper, while
the rim on the right will clear the calliper. On
vehicles equipped with
finned drum brakes, the profile of the trum is such that
the rounded indent will
push against the drum before the studs are fully
tightened.
Rims that do not clear
will require wheel spacers, of which there are two
varieties.
The first tend to be
relatively cheap, are made from cast pot-metal
or aluminum, and tend to
be about 1/4" thick. They are standard equipment on
vehicles of the DEVIL!
They are EVIL and will bring much unhappiness to you,
your family, and all
future generations bearing your name. They are totally
incapable of withstanding
the forces generated by off-road driving.
The second type are much
heavier duty. They're usually machined aluminum or
steel, and are closer to
1" thick. They bolt onto your hubs, then have a set of
their own studs that
alternate with the stock ones. The rims are actually
bolted to the spacers
themselves, and not to the vehicle's hub.
The following rims
DEFINITELY work on all drum and pre-89 disc brake equipped
trucks:
Brazilian made 16x7"
Mangels Series 10s (3.54" backspacing--3.75" backspacing
is a tight fit)
Brazilian made 16x7"
Mangels Series 90s (not sure what the backspacing is rated
as, but is actually ~3")
Note that all steel
Mangels sold in North America are now made in the US and WILL
NOT fit.
15" Eaton Monster
Wheels (3" backspacing)
15x8" Superior White
Spoke Wheels (3.5" backspacing)
15x8 American Eagle 589s
(backspacing-3.5?)
The following rims
DEFINITELY DO NOT work:
Any American Racing 16"
ANY Canadian Superior 16"
Alcoa/Mickey Thompson
Classic/Challenger 16"
US made Mangels in the
plain white boxes
8-spoke Toyota aluminum
wheels from pre-91 80 Series Land Cruisers, and
86+ Pickups/4Runners
I've also heard that
American Racing has changed the design of their rims so
most of their 15s don't
fit.
I'd appreciate it if
people could tell me what works on their trucks with
LC/Hilux disc-brake
equipped axles (fit isn't nearly as much of an issue
with drum brake equipped
trucks)
In 1989, the design of the
hub was changed to be more like that of the Hilux.
That meant that up to 4"
of back-spacing was permissable. Since the mating
surface of the hub was
moved further outboard, calliper clearance was not as
much of an issue.
In 1992, the wheel size of
LCs was changed to 16" that was to allow adequate
clearance between the rims
and the rear disc brakes. Fitting 15" wheels to a
>1992 truck equipped
with rear disc brakes requires grinding a little off the
callipers.
20.0 Land Cruiser Clubs
=======================
20.1 North America
------------------
Toyota Land Cruiser
Association (TLCA)
PO Box 607
Placerville, CA 95667-0607
Kara Patston (Membership):
KPatston@aol.com
Gary Bjork (Toyota Trails
Editor): TLCAEditor@aol.com
Membership
Services:1(800)397-3260 24hr voice/fax
Chapters:
This information (esp.
Contacts and Phone #'s) may change fairly regularly,
contact TLCA for more
info.
Basin & Range Cruisers
1639 East 4500 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84124
Contact: Jack Christensen
(801)277-6629
Beach'N'Toys
405 S Rose St.
Escondido, CA 92027
Contact: Brad Phillips
(619)747-1822
Capital Land Cruiser Club
45655C Woodland Rd.
Sterling, VA 20166
Contact: James Asti
(703)404-8115
Cascade Cruisers
10045 S. Marquam Circle
Molalla, OR 97038
Contact: Peter Poling
(503)642-9164
Coastal Cruisers
2360 Douglas Road
Burnaby, B.C.
Canada
V5C 5B2
Contact: Dave Romaniuk
(604)299-5600
E-contact: Rob Mullen
RAMullen@wimsey.com
Gold Coast Cruisers
761 Coronado Pl.
Oxnard, CA 93030
Contact: Lary Moczulski
(805)984-3309
Georgia Cruisers
PO Box 467691
Atlanta, GA 31146
Contact: Steve Clevenger
(404)446-9115
High-N-Dry Four Wheelers
9432 E. Ave. T-10
Littlerock, CA 93543
Contact: Mike Greear
(805)944-3881
Keystone Cruisers, TLCA of
PA
1063 E. Caracas
Hershey, PA 17033
Contact: Ken Johannsen
KJohannsen@aol.com
Massachusetts Coastal
Transit Authority
3 Federal St.
Newburyport, MA 01950
Contact: Tedd Brown
(508)465-6021
Mid-Ohio Land Cruisers
1791 E. Orange Rd.
Lewis Center, OH 43035
Contact: Bill Scott
(614)548-6214
Mountain Transit Authority
PO Box 54024
San Jose, CA 95154
Contact: Bill Youngman
(408)629-0949
billfj4045@aol.com
Nor-Cal Marauders
13880 Noble Way
Red Bluff, CA 96080
Contact: Jim Bosman
(916)527-4129
Rising Sun 4 Wheel Drive
Club of Colorado
4125 S. Lisbon Way
Aurora, CO 80013
Contact: Chris Hatfield
(303)680-1292
Toy4x4s@aol.com
Southeast Land Cruiser
Association
208 Reidhurst Ave.
Nashville, TN 37203
Contact: Rainey Kirk
(615)320-0129
Southern Nevada Land
Cruisers
PO Box 28004
Las Vegas, NV 89126
Contact: David Hawkins
(702)452-8471
So. Cal. TLCA
PO Box 1291
Sunset Beach, CA 90742
Contact: Ed Bailey
(714)841-9944
Totally Landcruisers of
New Jersey
PO Box 114
Eatontown, NJ 07724
Contact: Al Kaplan
(908)458-3413
TLCA Los Angeles County
1849 Lucretia Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Contact: Bill Ferguson
(213)250-4179
TLCA Ventura County
(founding chapter)
PO Box 367
Ventura, CA 93002
Contact: Michelle Bolton
(805)647-5263
Toyotally Awesome Cruisers
of Auburn
PO Box 5482
Auburn, CA 95604
Contact: Marty Patton
(916)268-9312
E-Contact: Jeff Hassi
JHassi@aol.com
Toys 4 Fun
PO Box 4086
Fresno, CA 93744
Contact: Chuck Parks
(209)432-9468
Toys on the Rocks
PO Box 546
Placerville, CA 95667
Contact: Jerry Schroeder
(916)642-0303
Virginia Land Cruiser
Association
205 Bayview Dr.
Yorktown, VA 23692
Contact: Bill Baxter
(804)877-9136
Washington Timber Toys
PO Box 2963
Woodinville, WA 98072-2963
Contact: Gordon Quehrn
(206)483-3531
Windy City Land Cruisers
4741 Montgomery Ave.
Downers Grove, IL 60515
Contact: Jim Today
(708)968-7820
20.2 Australia
--------------
Toyota Landcruiser Club of
Australia (Victoria) Inc.
PO Box 363
Hawthorn, Vic 3122
Toyota Landcruiser Club of
Australia (SA) Inc.
PO Box 55
Oaklands Park, SA 5046
Toyota LandCruiser Club of
Queensland Inc.
PO Box 8309
Wooloongabba, Qld 4102
bg@data3.com.au
http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Clubs/Au/Qld/TLC.html
Toyota Landcruiser Club of
Vic, Geelong Branch
PO Box 515
Geelong, Vic 3220
Toyota LandCruiser Club
(NSW)
PO Box 2
Bankstown, NSW 2200
rains@ozemail.com.au
Toyota LandCruiser Club of
W.A.
P.O. Box 518
Cloverdale, W.A. 6105
20.3 Netherlands
----------------
Toyota Landcruiser Club
The Netherlands
c/o Jos Coppes
Albionstraat 12
5809 AD Leunen
the Netherlands
phone: 0478-512935 (day)
and: 0478-583290
(evenings)
21.0 Parts Suppliers
====================
Legend
N New Parts
U Used Parts
C Catalog Available
S Service or Custom
Work
V Complete Vehicles
* Specialty Products
21.1 North America
------------------
Advance Adapters, Inc.
N,C
Engine/Transmission/TC Adapters
PO Box 247
Paso Robles, CA 93447
(805)238-7000 FAX
(805)238-4201
www.advanceadapter.com
sales@advanceadapter.com
Advanced Four Wheel Drive
Systems
S
1102 South 200 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
(801)521-2334 FAX
(801)521-2335
All American Enterprises
4x4
4830 N. Hwy 97
Klamath Falls, OR 97601
(541)882-5313
Aqualu Industries
3251-A Sexsmith Road
Kelowna, BC Canada
(604) 765-6714 FAX
(604)765-6704
ARB-U.S.A.*
Air Lockers, ARB
bumpers,
1425 Elliott Ave. W
Old Man Emu Springs, Shackles
Seattle, WA 98119
(206)284-5906 FAX
(206)284-6171
arbusa@halcyon.com
Brown's Toyota City
N
New parts at wholesale
7167 Ritchie Hwy.
Glen Burnie, MD 21061
1-800-848-4451
BTB Products
N,U,M,S
Adv. Adapters, PS Conv, Compressors
825 Civic Center Dr. #8
Springs, Disc Conv, Cages, Tire Racks
Santa Clara, CA 95050
(408)984-5444 FAX
(408)984-0155
btbprod@btbprod.com
http://www.btbprod.com/Home.html
Clifford Performance
N,C
6-1 Headers, camshafts, EFI kits
2330 Pomona-Rincon Rd.
Corona, CA 91720
(714)734-3310
(714)734-3405
Colorado Toyota
Specialists
26366 Sutton Rd.
Conifer, CO 80433
(303)838-4772
Con-Ferr
N,C
Bumpers, Skid Plates, Shackles, Diff
123 South Front St., Dept.
FW0495 Skids, Roof Racks, Storage Boxes
Burbank, CA 91502-1983
(213)849-1800,
(818)848-2025,2330,6993
FAX(818)848-1011
"Cool Cruisers"
of Texas
V,N
Sells Restored Land Cruisers, Body
101 - 5101 Grisham Drive
Panels, Bolt-on Air Conditioning
Rowlett (Dallas Suburb),
TX 75243 **NO CATALOGS OR OTHER PARTS
(214)707-8993 FAX
(972)303-4600 AVAILABLE**
coolfj40@gte.net
http://www.coolcruisers.com
Cruiser Parts
2659 Williams Hwy
Grants Pass, OR 97257
(541) 479-5500
Desert Toyota
N
New Toyota Parts
7150 East 22nd Street
Tucson, AZ, U.S.A. 85710
(520)296-8535 FAX
(520)790-2900
spiketgr@aol.com
Downey Off-Road
Manufacturing
N,C,M
Tanks, Bumpers, Cams, Adapters,
10001 S. Pioneer Blvd.
Clutches, Dietributors, Tops, Diffs
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
(213)949-9494 FAX
(213)949-5718
FabTech Manufacturing &
Off Road, Inc.
N,U,S,C
14ga Steel Tubs, Fenders, PS
#9 - 150 Campion Rd.
Conversions, Restored LC's,
Kelowna, B.C.
Shackle Reversal
Canada V1V 1L9
(604)765-0019 FAX
(604)765-1419
http://shop.info-tec.com/fabtech/
fabtech@info-tec.com
Front Range Cruisers
N,U
Buy/Sell/Trade
2406 North Logan Ave.
Colorado Springs, CO.
80907
(719)633-8178 FAX
(719)475-7609
Grimes@pcisys.net
Hadley Industries
U,V,N,S,D
4785 Pratt
Metamora, MI 48455
(810)797-4120
Interior Auto Wrecking
U, V
Used FJ/BJ/HJ Parts
3101 45th Ave.
Vernon, B.C.
Canada V1T 3N7
(604)545-2104 FAX
(604)542-3335
James Toyota
172 Route 202
Flemington, NJ 08822
(908)788-5700 FAX
(908)788-7887
info@toyotaoutlet.com
http://www.toyotaoutlet.com
Jim's Fuel Injection
Service
N
Diesel injector service,
112-1083 East Kent Ave.
Diesel fuel pump parts
Vancouver, B.C.
Bolt on turbo kits
V5X 4V9
(604)324-1715
K & L Engineering*
6355 Smith Ave.
Mira Loma, CA 91725
(714)735-4182
Land Cruiser Advanced
Handling
N,S
Suspension Correction (Shackle
1029 S.E.24th
Reversal), Springs, Spring Over
Albany, OR 97321
Conversion
(541)926-8122
Land Cruiser Connection
N,S
Restoration, Repairs, Rebuilds, Custom
45661B Woodland Road
Fabrication, ARB/OME, Fibreglass Panels
Sterling, VA
(703) 404 8115
jasti@landcruiserconnection.com
http://www.landcruiserconnection.com/
Land Cruiser Recycling
N,U,V
PO Box 11727
Blacksburg, VA 24060-1727
(703)961-2053
Land Cruiser Solutions
Al Tubs, Grilles,
Tailgates, Fenders,
20 Thornell Rd.
Running Boards
Newton, NH 03858
(603)382-3555
LandCruiserSolutions.Inc@worldnet.att.net
Land Cruisers Unlimited
U,N,S
Steel 1/2 Doors, Tail Lights, Tire
E. 7555 Ohio Match Road
Carriers, FR/RR Discs, Bumpers
Rathdrun, ID 83858
(208)687-2607
Laughing Horse Design
12205 Lockey Lane Ste 12
Auburn, CA 95602
(916)888-8200
Lou Fusz Toyota
N,C
New Toyota Parts, Accessories, &
10725 Mancheser St.
Performance Parts
St Louis, MO, 63122
1-800-325-9581(CA/US)
(314)-966-5404
FUSZTOYOTA@aol.com
Malotte Manufacturing Co.,
Inc.
N,C
Fibreglass tubs, tops, fenders
PO Box 305
Lincoln, CA 95648
(916)645-8111
Man-A-Fre
N,U,M,C
6-1 Headers, Carbs, Toyota Parts,
5076 Chesebro Rd.
Rebuilt Parts, Lights, Springs,
Agoura, CA 91301
Shocks, LSD's, Old Man Emu, ARB,
(818)991-6689 FAX
(818)991-7105 Con-Ferr Advance Adapters
sysmgr@man-a-fre.com
http://www.man-a-fre.com/
Mark's Off Road
Enterprises
N,U,D,S,M
437 N. Moss Street
Burbank, CA 90501
(818)953-9230 FAX
(818)953-7225
Marlins Auto & Truck
Repair
S
Marlin Crawlers?
1543-B N. Maple
Fresno, CA 93703
(209)252-1584
Nairobi Outfitters
Extreme duty grillguards/winchmounts
PO Box 1211
Expedition quality vehicle
Goleta, Ca 93117
modifications/fabrication, tech support
(805)682-7933
National Spring
N
Custom springs/lift kits
Dept. OR
1402 N. Magnolia Ave.
El Cajon, CA 92020
(619)441-1901
Northwest Off-Road
Specialties
N,C,F
80 Series Accessories ONLY
1999 Iowa St.
Bellingham, WA 98226
(206)676-1200 FAX (206)
676-5401
Olympic Off Road
N,U,S,V,D
3735 S Pine Suite E
Tacoma, WA 98409
(206)473-5797
Ozone Off-Road, Inc.
N,U,S,C,V
Performance items, fibreglass bodies,
4623 Canyon Ridge Ln
V8 conv., suspension, frame mounted
Reno NV 89503
roll bars/cages
Performance Products
N,C
7658 Haskell Avenue
Van Nuys, CA, U.S.A.
91406-2005
(800)423-3173 FAX
(800)752-6196
performprod@msn.com
PowerTrax/Lock Right*
245 Fischer Ave. B-4
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(800)562-5377 FAX
(714)545-5425
powertrax@aol.com
Pull Pal / Premier Power
Welder
S
P.O. Box 639
Carbondale, CO, U.S.A.
81623
(970)963-8875 FAX
(970)963-8875
Ramsey Winch Co.*
Winches?! :)
PO Box 581510
Tulsa, OK 74158
(918)438-2760 FAX
(918)438-6688
Renegade Fabrication
Service or Custom Work, Specialty
18447 N. 33rd Avenue
Products
Phoenix, AZ, U.S.A.
85023-1050
(602) 938-3185
R&M Specialty
Products*
Onboard hot-water
showers
PO Box 1683
Windsor, CA 95492
(707)838-3869
Rocky Mountain Offroad
Specialties
365 Bonny Street, Suite A
Grand Junction, CO, U.S.A.
81503
(800) 524-6005
Specter Off-Road, Inc.
N,U,M,C
New/Used Toyota USA/NON USA Parts
21600 Nordhoff St.
3-2-1 Headers, Conn-Ferr
Chatsworth, CA 91311
(818)882-1238 FAX
(818)882-7144
Specterlc@aol.com
http://www.sor.com/
Sterling McCall
Lexus/Toyota
10422 Southwest Freeway
Houston, TX, U.S.A. 77074
(713)995-2600 FAX
(713)995-2695
Stevens Creek Toyota, Inc.
N,S,V
4425 Stevens Creek Blvd.
Santa Clara, CA 95050-7395
(408)984-1234 FAX
(408)246-8028
http://www2.sctoyota.com
Sun Performance Products
Air compressors
17 Musick
Irvine, CA, U.S.A. 92718
(714) 588-8567, Fax: (714)
588-0142
TLC Restoration and Sales
S,V
14743 Oxnard Street
Owner: Johnathan Ward
Van Nuys, CA 91411
Restored FJ40s/60s/62s
(818)785-2200 FAX
(818)785-2209
http://www.tlc4x4.com/
jward@tlc4x4.com
TLC Mechanix
Owner: Adrian McGlaughlin
N,U,S,V
Power steering, disc brakes,
122 S. Lillie Lane
V8 conversions, suspensions, custom
Fayetteville, AR 72701
fabrication.
501-582-4TLC (4852)
TLCMEX@aol.com
TLC Offroad
N,U,S
New/Used Parts, ARB/OME, 24V bulbs,
2360 Douglas Rd.
Nippondenso glow plugs
Burnaby, BC
Canada
V5C 5B2
(604)299-5600
RAMullen@wimsey.com
Toyotas "R" Us
U,S
7730 CR 150
Salida, CO 81201
(719)539-7733
TPI Land Cruiser Parts And
Accessories
N,U
1042 Jasperson Drive
Madison, TN 37115
(615)865-4499 FAX
(615)860-6074
www.tpilandcruiser.com
Truck Sales Co. Off-Road
Center
N,U,M,S,V
2211 Dickerson Road
Nashville, TN 37207
(615)262-5850
Toyota Racing Development
(TRD U.A.A., Inc.)
355 East Baker
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714)444-1188
1(800)688-5913
Warden's Auto Repair
N,U,S,V
SM420-3 SPD TC adapter kits
640 Main St.
Bullet Proof CNC Milled Transfer
Placerville, CA 95667
Cases
(916)622-9242 FAX(909)
338-6709
W.E. For Wheel
N,U
PO Box 601
Crestline, CA 92325
(909)338-5120 FAX
(989)338-6709
21.2 Australia
--------------
Don Kyatt 4WD Parts &
Accessories
N,S
Direct importer of spare parts,
172 Roden St.
ARB Stockists
West Melbourne, Vic
AUSTRALIA 3003
(03)329-8200
177 Chesterville Rd.
Moorabbin, Vic
AUSTRALIA 3189
(03)555-0455
108 Regency Rd.
Ferryden Park, SA
AUSTRALIA 5010
(08)243-1966
Four Wheel Drives
N,U,C
Mail order world wide since 1955
304 Middleborough Rd.
If it's off a four wheel drive, they've
Blackburn, South Vic
got it and will get it to you
AUSTRALIA 3130
(03)9890-0500 FAX
(03)9898-6374
fwd@fwd.com.au
www.fwd.com.au
Leo's Cruisers
Early FJ40's and FJ55's, fibreglass body
2 Panamuna Ave
panels
Taylors Lakes
Victoria
AUSTRALIA 3038.
613 93902670 CELL 613 15
329433
Mark's Adapters
22 Sinclair Road
Dandenong, Victoria
AUSTRALIA 3175
(03) 9793 3388 (03) 9706
8148
marks4wd@ozemail.com.au
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~marks4wd/
malik4xxx@gmail.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Technical Specifications
1. Landcruiser 60 3F 1984
General Information
Make Toyota
Model Landcruiser 60 3F
Production Year 1984
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 4/5S ORV
Number of Doors 5
Wheelbase 2730 mm
(107.5 in)
Front Track 1470 mm
(57.9 in)
Rear Track 1460 mm
(57.5 in)
Length 4750 mm (187
in)
Width 1800 mm (70.9
in)
Height 1810 mm (71.3
in)
Ground Clearance 210 mm
(8.3 in)
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.74
Weight 1900 kg (4185
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear) %52 / %48
Fuel Capacity 90.9 litre
(20 Imp gal , 24 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type OHV
Number of Cylinders and
Placement S-6
Valves per Cylinder 2
(toplam 12 adet)
Engine Displacement 3995
cc (243.79 cu in)
Bore 94 mm (3.7 in)
Stroke 95 mm (3.74 in)
Bore / Stroke Ratio 0.99
Unitary Capacity 665.83
cc/cylinder (40.63 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings 7
Compression Ratio 8 : 1
Fuel System Type 1 Ai carb
Aspiration Type Normal
Compressor Type -
Intercooler Type None
Catalytic Converter No
Maximum Engine Power 155
HP (115.6 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
4200 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 294
N.m (217 lb.ft , 30 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
2200 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 262.8 N.m (4200 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 81.6
HP/ton (60.8 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 38.8 HP/litre (28.9 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration
Top Speed 155 km/h (96.3
mph)
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 2 x 5M
Top Gear Ratio 0.85 : 1
Final Drive Ratio 4.11 : 1
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type
recirculating ball
Steering Turns (lock to
lock) 4.3
Turning Circle Diameter
13.2 m (43.3 ft)
Suspension (front)
LA.SE.ARB.
Suspension (rear) LA.SE.
Brakes (front/rear)
VeDi/Dr-S
Brake Disc Diameter
(front)
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
Wheels (front)
Wheels (rear)
Tyres (front)
Tyres (rear)
malik4xxx@gmail.com
Toyota LJ70
The Toyota Land Cruiser
Bundera was introduced with the rest of the 70-series in late 1984,
replacing the 40-series.
It is a lighter duty
Landcruiser than the rest of the 70 range, with smaller Hilux
differentials and drivetrain, and lower capacity engine options. It
was also Toyota's first attempt at a coil sprung 4wd, utilising the
same 5-link system found in the 80-series with radius arms and
Panhard rod. Whilst this suspension works quite effectively offroad,
with the short wheelbase it can lead to body pitch and roll onroad.
Good quality springs and shock absorbers help remedy this.
The Bundera entered the
newly emerging market niche of recreational 4wd's, more suited to the
odd weekend away than punishing long offroad trips or commercial use.
Pictured is a later model
(1990) Australian Bundera, evidence that Toyota toyed with the idea
of continuing marketing the vehicle here. Such vehicles, identifiable
by the square headlights and redesigned bonnet, are fairly rare
locally [au] but were sold in overseas markets up until around 1993.
- Bilbo B' [5/'00]
Toyota Bundera 1984 - 1989
2 door, soft top or
hardtop, 2+3 seats
loa: 346mm, width: 1690mm,
wheelbase: 2310mm (90") track: 1425mm/1420mm, grnd clearance:
230mm turning radius: 6.5m (kerb)
petrol: (RJ70...)
22R 2367cc petrol 4cyls
2-valves/cyl sohc
bore: 92mm, stroke: 89mm,
c.r.: 9.0:1
power: 105 HP at 4800rpm,
torque: 136 Ft-Lb at 2800rpm
diesel: (LJ70...)
2L 2446cc diesel 4cyls
2-valves/cyl sohc
bore: 92mm, stroke: 92mm,
c.r.: 22.3:1
power: 72 HP at 4000rpm,
torque: 115 Ft-Lb at 2200rpm
and
2L-T 2446cc turbo diesel
4cyls 2-valves/cyl sohc
bore: 92mm, stroke: 92mm,
c.r.: 20.0:1
power: 86 HP at 4000rpm,
torque: 139 Ft-Lb at 2400rpm
transmission: 5m (G52 or
R150F in turbo model) gearbox, part-time 4WD, 2-speed transfer case.
suspension:
live-coil/live-coil, brakes: disc/drum
tyres: 7.50R16 or
265/65r15, fuel-tank: 90L
Note: dimensions given for
hard-top.
Competition: Nissan GQ
SWB, Daihatsu Rocky, Mitsubishi Pajero or Holden Jackaroo SWB
Go to the 70-series and
Toyota (main) page
------------------------------------------------------------------------
› Toyota ›
Landcruiser 70 LX1984 - Toyota - Landcruiser 70 LXAll Technical
Specifications Technical Specs of This Model
1. Landcruiser 70 LX 1984
General Information
Make Toyota
Model Landcruiser 70 LX
Production Year 1984
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 4/5S ORV
Number of Doors 3
Wheelbase 2600 mm
(102.4 in)
Front Track 1420 mm
(55.9 in)
Rear Track 1420 mm
(55.9 in)
Length 4260 mm (167.7
in)
Width 1690 mm (66.5
in)
Height 1900 mm (74.8
in)
Ground Clearance 180 mm
(7.1 in)
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.64
Weight 1820 kg (4008.8
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear)
Fuel Capacity 90 litre
(19.8 Imp gal , 23.8 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type OHV
Number of Cylinders and
Placement S-4
Valves per Cylinder 2
(toplam 8 adet)
Engine Displacement 3431
cc (209.37 cu in)
Bore 102 mm (4.02 in)
Stroke 105 mm (4.13
in)
Bore / Stroke Ratio 0.97
Unitary Capacity 857.75
cc/cylinder (52.34 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings 5
Compression Ratio 20 : 1
Fuel System Type Bo VE
Diesel pump
Aspiration Type Normal D.
Compressor Type -
Intercooler Type None
Catalytic Converter No
Maximum Engine Power 98 HP
(73.1 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
3500 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 255
N.m (188.2 lb.ft , 26 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
2200 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 199.4 N.m (3500 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 53.8
HP/ton (40.2 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 28.6 HP/litre (21.3 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration
Top Speed
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 2 x 5M
Top Gear Ratio 0.85 : 1
Final Drive Ratio 4.11 : 1
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type
recirculating ball PAS
Steering Turns (lock to
lock) 3.3
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Make Toyota
Model Land Cruiser II 2.4
Tubodiesel SW LJ70
Model
Land Cruiser II 2.4 Tubodiesel SW LJ70
Production Year 1992
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 4/5S ORV
Number of Doors 3
Wheelbase 2310 mm
(90.9 in)
Front Track 1415 mm
(55.7 in)
Rear Track 1400 mm
(55.1 in)
Length 3970 mm (156.3
in)
Width 1690 mm (66.5
in)
Height 1880 mm (74 in)
Ground Clearance 205 mm
(8.1 in)
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.72
Weight 1800 kg (3964.8
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear)
Fuel Capacity 90 litre
(19.8 Imp gal , 23.8 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type OHV
Number of Cylinders and
Placement S-4
Valves per Cylinder 2
(toplam 8 adet)
Engine Displacement 2446
cc (149.26 cu in)
Bore 92 mm (3.62 in)
Stroke 92 mm (3.62 in)
Bore / Stroke Ratio 1
Unitary Capacity 611.5
cc/cylinder (37.32 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings 5
Compression Ratio 21 : 1
Fuel System Type Bo diesel
pump
Aspiration Type Turbo D.
Compressor Type
Intercooler Type
Catalytic Converter No
Maximum Engine Power 90 HP
(67.1 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
3500 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 215
N.m (158.7 lb.ft , 21.9 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
2400 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 183.1 N.m (3500 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 50
HP/ton (37.3 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 36.8 HP/litre (27.4 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration 46
s
Top Speed 135 km/h (83.9
mph)
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 5M
Top Gear Ratio 0.85 : 1
Final Drive Ratio 4.88 : 1
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type
recirculating ball PAS
Steering Turns (lock to
lock)
Turning Circle Diameter
Suspension (front)
Suspension (rear)
Brakes (front/rear)
Di/Dr-S
Brake Disc Diameter
(front)
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
Wheels (front)
Wheels (rear)
Tyres (front)
Tyres (rear)
PROVIDED BY
MALIK4XXX@GMAIL.COM
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
› Toyota ›
Landcruiser 70 1984
Make Toyota
Model Landcruiser 70
Production Year 1984
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 4/5S ORV
Number of Doors 3
Wheelbase 2310 mm
(90.9 in)
Front Track 1410 mm
(55.5 in)
Rear Track 1410 mm
(55.5 in)
Length 3970 mm (156.3
in)
Width 1690 mm (66.5
in)
Height 1900 mm (74.8
in)
Ground Clearance 210 mm
(8.3 in)
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.72
Weight 1740 kg (3832.6
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear) %52 / %48
Fuel Capacity 90 litre
(19.8 Imp gal , 23.8 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type OHV
Number of Cylinders and
Placement S-4
Valves per Cylinder 2
(toplam 8 adet)
Engine Displacement 3431
cc (209.37 cu in)
Bore 102 mm (4.02 in)
Stroke 105 mm (4.13
in)
Bore / Stroke Ratio 0.97
Unitary Capacity 857.75
cc/cylinder (52.34 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings 5
Compression Ratio 20 : 1
Fuel System Type Bo VE
Diesel pump
Aspiration Type Normal D.
Compressor Type -
Intercooler Type None
Catalytic Converter No
Maximum Engine Power 98 HP
(73.1 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
3500 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 255
N.m (188.2 lb.ft , 26 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
2200 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 199.4 N.m (3500 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 56.3
HP/ton (42 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 28.6 HP/litre (21.3 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration
Top Speed
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 2 x 5M
Top Gear Ratio 0.85 : 1
Final Drive Ratio 4.11 : 1
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type
recirculating ball
Steering Turns (lock to
lock) 4.1
Turning Circle Diameter
10.6 m (34.8 ft)
Suspension (front) LA.SE.
Suspension (rear) LA.SE.
Brakes (front/rear)
VeDi/Dr-S
Brake Disc Diameter
(front)
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
Wheels (front)
Wheels (rear)
Tyres (front)
Tyres (rear)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toyota › Landcruiser II
3.0 TD1994
1. Land Cruiser II 2.4
Tubodiesel SW LJ70 1992
General Information
Make Toyota
Model Landcruiser II 3.0
TD
Production Year 1994
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 4/5S ORV
Number of Doors 3
Wheelbase 2310 mm
(90.9 in)
Front Track
Rear Track
Length 4125 mm (162.4
in)
Width 1790 mm (70.5
in)
Height 1915 mm (75.4
in)
Ground Clearance
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.79
Weight 2000 kg (4405.3
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear)
Fuel Capacity 90 litre
(19.8 Imp gal , 23.8 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type SOHC
Number of Cylinders and
Placement S-4
Valves per Cylinder 2
(toplam 8 adet)
Engine Displacement 2982
cc (181.97 cu in)
Bore 96 mm (3.78 in)
Stroke 103 mm (4.06
in)
Bore / Stroke Ratio 0.93
Unitary Capacity 745.5
cc/cylinder (45.49 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings
Compression Ratio 21.2 : 1
Fuel System Type
Aspiration Type Turbo D.
Compressor Type
Intercooler Type
Catalytic Converter No
Maximum Engine Power 123
HP (91.7 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
3600 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 295
N.m (217.7 lb.ft , 30.1 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
2000 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 243.3 N.m (3600 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 61.5
HP/ton (45.9 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 41.2 HP/litre (30.8 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph 16.4 s
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration
Top Speed 150 km/h (93.2
mph)
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 2 x 5M
Top Gear Ratio
Final Drive Ratio 4.3 : 1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
›
Toyota › Mega Cruiser1995 - Toyota - Mega CruiserAll Technical
Specifications Technical Specs of This Model
1. Mega Cruiser 1995
General Information
Make Toyota
Model Mega Cruiser
Production Year 1995
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 6/8S ORV
Number of Doors 4
Wheelbase 3395 mm
(133.7 in)
Front Track
Rear Track
Length 5130 mm (202
in)
Width 2170 mm (85.4
in)
Height 2285 mm (90 in)
Ground Clearance 420 mm
(16.5 in)
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.51
Weight 2850 kg (6277.5
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear)
Fuel Capacity 108 litre
(23.8 Imp gal , 28.5 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type SOHC
Number of Cylinders and
Placement S-6
Valves per Cylinder 2
(toplam 12 adet)
Engine Displacement 4164
cc (254.1 cu in)
Bore
Stroke
Bore / Stroke Ratio
Unitary Capacity 694
cc/cylinder (42.35 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings
Compression Ratio
Fuel System Type
Aspiration Type Turbo D.
Compressor Type
Intercooler Type Yes
Catalytic Converter
Maximum Engine Power 136
HP (101.4 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
3200 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 382
N.m (281.9 lb.ft , 39 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
2000 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 302.6 N.m (3200 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 47.7
HP/ton (35.6 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 32.7 HP/litre (24.4 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration
Top Speed
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 4A
Top Gear Ratio
Final Drive Ratio
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type 4 wheel
steering
Steering Turns (lock to
lock)
Turning Circle Diameter
11.2 m (36.7 ft)
Suspension (front)
I.DW.TB.
Suspension (rear) I.DW.TB.
Brakes (front/rear)
Brake Disc Diameter
(front)
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
Wheels (front)
Wheels (rear)
Tyres (front)
Tyres (rear)
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type ball &
nut PAS
Steering Turns (lock to
lock) 3.4
Turning Circle Diameter
10.6 m (34.8 ft)
Suspension (front)
LA.LA.LatLi.CS.
Suspension (rear)
LA.TA.LatLi.CS.
Brakes (front/rear)
Di/Dr-S
Brake Disc Diameter
(front)
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
Wheels (front)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
› Toyota ›
FJ Cruiser2006 - Toyota - FJ CruiserAll
1. FJ Cruiser 2006
General Information
Make Toyota
Model FJ Cruiser
Production Year 2006
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 4/5S ORV
Number of Doors 5
Wheelbase 2690 mm
(105.9 in)
Front Track 1605 mm
(63.2 in)
Rear Track 1605 mm
(63.2 in)
Length 4671 mm (183.9
in)
Width 1895 mm (74.6
in)
Height 1819 mm (71.6
in)
Ground Clearance 244 mm
(9.6 in)
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.74
Weight 1946 kg (4286.3
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear)
Fuel Capacity 72 litre
(15.8 Imp gal , 19 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient 0.4
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
aluminium alloy block & head
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type DOHC
Number of Cylinders and
Placement V-6
Valves per Cylinder 4
(toplam 24 adet)
Engine Displacement 3956
cc (241.41 cu in)
Bore 94 mm (3.7 in)
Stroke 95 mm (3.74 in)
Bore / Stroke Ratio 0.99
Unitary Capacity 659.33
cc/cylinder (40.24 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings
Compression Ratio 10 : 1
Fuel System Type SFi
Aspiration Type Normal
Compressor Type -
Intercooler Type None
Catalytic Converter Yes
Maximum Engine Power 239
HP (178.2 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
5200 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 377
N.m (278.2 lb.ft , 38.5 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
3700 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 327.3 N.m (5200 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 122.8
HP/ton (91.6 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 60.4 HP/litre (45.1 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration
Top Speed
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 6M
Top Gear Ratio 0.8 : 1
Final Drive Ratio 3.61 : 1
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type rack &
pinion VPAS
Steering Turns (lock to
lock) 3
Turning Circle Diameter
Suspension (front)
I.DW.ARB.
Suspension (rear)
I.4Li.CS.ARB.
Brakes (front/rear)
VeDi/VeDi-S-ABS
Brake Disc Diameter
(front) 320 mm
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
312 mm
Wheels (front) 7.5 x 17
Wheels (rear) 7.5 x 17
Tyres (front) P265/70 R 17
Tyres (rear) P265/70 R 17
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
› Toyota ›
FJ Cruiser 4WD Automatic2006
FJ Cruiser 4WD Automatic 2006
General Information
Make Toyota
Model FJ Cruiser 4WD
Automatic
Production Year 2006
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 4/5S ORV
Number of Doors 5
Wheelbase 2690 mm
(105.9 in)
Front Track 1605 mm
(63.2 in)
Rear Track 1605 mm
(63.2 in)
Length 4671 mm (183.9
in)
Width 1895 mm (74.6
in)
Height 1819 mm (71.6
in)
Ground Clearance 244 mm
(9.6 in)
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.74
Weight 1948 kg (4290.7
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear)
Fuel Capacity 72 litre
(15.8 Imp gal , 19 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient 0.4
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
aluminium alloy block & head
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type DOHC
Number of Cylinders and
Placement V-6
Valves per Cylinder 4
(toplam 24 adet)
Engine Displacement 3956
cc (241.41 cu in)
Bore 94 mm (3.7 in)
Stroke 95 mm (3.74 in)
Bore / Stroke Ratio 0.99
Unitary Capacity 659.33
cc/cylinder (40.24 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings
Compression Ratio 10 : 1
Fuel System Type SFi
Aspiration Type Normal
Compressor Type -
Intercooler Type None
Catalytic Converter Yes
Maximum Engine Power 239
HP (178.2 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
5200 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 377
N.m (278.2 lb.ft , 38.5 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
3700 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 327.3 N.m (5200 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 122.7
HP/ton (91.5 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 60.4 HP/litre (45.1 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration
Top Speed
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 5A
Top Gear Ratio 0.72 : 1
Final Drive Ratio 3.73 : 1
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type rack &
pinion VPAS
Steering Turns (lock to
lock) 3
Turning Circle Diameter
Suspension (front)
I.DW.ARB.
Suspension (rear)
I.4Li.CS.ARB.
Brakes (front/rear)
VeDi/VeDi-S-ABS
Brake Disc Diameter
(front) 320 mm
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
312 mm
Wheels (front) 7.5 x 17
Wheels (rear) 7.5 x 17
Tyres (front) P265/70 R 17
Tyres (rear) P265/70 R 17
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
› Toyota › Landcruiser Estate1976
1. Landcruiser Estate 1976
General Information
Make Toyota
Model Landcruiser Estate
Production Year 1976
Country
Designer
Production Number
Model Code
Model Family
Chassis and Dimensions
Chassis Type 4/5S ORV
Number of Doors 5
Wheelbase 2648 mm
(104.3 in)
Front Track 1403 mm
(55.2 in)
Rear Track 1397 mm (55
in)
Length 4686 mm (184.5
in)
Width 1689 mm (66.5
in)
Height 1867 mm (73.5
in)
Ground Clearance 203 mm
(8 in)
Length / Wheelbase Ratio
1.77
Weight 1848 kg (4070.5
lb)
Weight Distribution
(front/rear)
Fuel Capacity 81.8 litre
(18 Imp gal , 21.6 US gal)
Aerodynamics
Drag Coefficient
Frontal Area
Cx
Engine Specifications
Engine Manufacturer Toyota
Engine Location Front
Engine Alignment
Longitudinal
Engine Construction
Coolant Type Water
Engine Type OHV
Number of Cylinders and
Placement S-6
Valves per Cylinder 2
(toplam 12 adet)
Engine Displacement 4230
cc (258.13 cu in)
Bore 94 mm (3.7 in)
Stroke 102 mm (4.02
in)
Bore / Stroke Ratio 0.92
Unitary Capacity 705
cc/cylinder (43.02 cu in/cylinder)
Number of Main Bearings
Compression Ratio 7.8 : 1
Fuel System Type 1 Ai carb
Aspiration Type Normal
Compressor Type -
Intercooler Type None
Catalytic Converter No
Maximum Engine Power 135
HP (100.7 kW)
Maximum Engine Power rpm
3600 d/d
Maximum Engine Torque 285
N.m (210.3 lb.ft , 29.1 kg.m)
Maximum Engine Torque rpm
1800 d/d
Engine Torque at Max.
Engine Power rpm 267 N.m (3600 d/d)
Power / Weight Ratio 73.1
HP/ton (54.5 W/kg)
Power / Engine
Displacement Ratio 31.9 HP/litre (23.8 kW/litre)
CO2 Emissions
Fuel Consumption
Performance
0 - 80 km/h
0 - 60 mph
0 - 100 km/h
0 - 160 km/h
80 - 120 km/h (in top
gear)
0 - 400 m Acceleration
0 - 1000 m Acceleration
Top Speed
Gearbox and Transmission
Transmission Type 4M
Top Gear Ratio 1 : 1
Final Drive Ratio 3.7 : 1
Drive Wheels 4WD
Handling, Suspension
Geometry and Brakes
Steering Type
recirculating ball
Steering Turns (lock to
lock)
Turning Circle Diameter
Suspension (front) LA.SE.
Suspension (rear) LA.SE.
Brakes (front/rear)
Dr/Dr-S
Brake Disc Diameter
(front)
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
Wheels (front)
Wheels (rear)
Tyres (front)
Tyres (rear)
Brake Disc Diameter
(front) 320 mm
Brake Disc Diameter (rear)
312 mm
Wheels (front) 7.5 x 17
Wheels (rear) 7.5 x 17
Tyres (front) P265/70 R 17
Tyres (rear) P265/70 R 17
MALIK4XXX@GMAIL.COM
---------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MODEL
70
The
First Transfiguration in 30 Years
The
pressure from the preceding model sales volume was enormous. However,
the 70 series was able evolve the Land Cruiser while maintaining the
images of rigidity, reliability, and durability of the past. Without
major alterations to the basic structure, many small details that
pioneered the path to modernization were added on.
Production
Period 1984-
*Production
period in Japan.
The period of introduction for this generation
model may vary by region.
In
1984 a new 70-series was born, bringing to a close a long era of 29
years (including the 20-series) during which the 40-series remained
virtually unchanged. There were limits to what could be done to
modernize the old design of the 40-series model. For this reason
Chief Engineer Masaomi Yoshii introduced a complete overhaul in the
design, producing the 70-series to lead the Land Cruiser with a new
generation.
The
first pre-condition however was that the new Land Cruiser was not to
sacrifice any of its toughness, so a strong ladder frame was outfit
with rigid leaf springs. The body plates were thickened by 1.0mm for
added strength. While leaving something of the image of the
40-series, such as externally added fenders, it was also given modern
features such as curved glass. As before there were two body types
available, the short BJ70 (soft top and van), and the middle BJ73
(FRP top).
In
1985 a derivative of the BJ70 model was added, the LJ71G, which had a
2L-T-type engine (4-cylinder, 2,446cc, 85PS, 19.2kgm). As indicated
by the letter G, this model was registered as a passenger car type
wagon. It had a soft appearance in the front mask, and the suspension
had rigid coil springs. In the export model it was known as the Light
Land Cruiser, or the Land Cruiser II. Moreover, this was the same
engine that was installed in the 4 Runner
At
that time the BJ70 lineup was also expanded with the addition of the
BJ71 and BJ74, which had a 13B-T-type turbo diesel engine. The BJ74
LX grade also came with automatic transmission.
Later
the Land Cruiser shifted its weight to the 60-series. In competition
to outdo its rival model the Pajero in terms of luxury, the 60-series
evolved into the 80-series. During this period the 70-series tended
to fade into the background.
Then
in 1990 a significant minor change was introduced in the 70-series,
when two newly developed engines were introduced; the 1PZ-type engine
(replacing the 3B-type with an OHC 5-cylinder, 3,469cc, 115PS,
23.5kgm engine specs), and the 1HZ-type engine (replacing the 13B-T
with an OHC 6-cylinder, 4,163cc, 135PS, 28.5kgm engine specs).
Moreover, to the middle length model a new ZX grade was added. Both
the PZJ70 short and the HZJ73 underwent modifications.
Following
that in the same year the 70-series wagon underwent a complete
makeover. In addition to the original 2-door, a 4-door semi-long was
introduced, the name was changed to the Prado, and with other design
changes it took on its own unique identity. The 4-door model had 3
rows of seats and could carry 8 people. Compared to the 70-series
that was registered as a commercial vehicle, it now had more
potential reclassified as an RV. The 2L-T-type was transformed with
electronic controls in the new 2L-TE-type engine, which gave it
improved performance. With the minor change the short version kept
its LJ71 number, while the long version was renamed the LJ78. At this
time also appeared a 4-door semi-long, with a choice of two engines
the 1PZ or the 1HZ named accordingly the PZJ77 and the HZJ77.
In
1991 the Prado semi-long had a wide body version added to the lineup.
In 1993 the short also had a wide body version added, and a newly
developed engine was added, the 1KZ-TE (2,982cc, NET130PS, 29.5kgm).
All of this meant major improvements in performance. In 1994 the
1PZ-type engine was dropped from the van series, leaving only the 1HZ
type of engine.
With
the full model change in 1996 it embarked on a new and independent
path as the Prado. The van type underwent a series of minor changes,
taking on front rigid coil springs in 1999, leading up to the present
day.
Toyota LJ70
The Toyota Land Cruiser
Bundera was introduced with the rest of the 70-series in late 1984,
replacing the 40-series.
It is a lighter duty
Landcruiser than the rest of the 70 range, with smaller Hilux
differentials and drivetrain, and lower capacity engine options. It
was also Toyota's first attempt at a coil sprung 4wd, utilising the
same 5-link system found in the 80-series with radius arms and
Panhard rod. Whilst this suspension works quite effectively offroad,
with the short wheelbase it can lead to body pitch and roll onroad.
Good quality springs and shock absorbers help remedy this.
The Bundera entered the
newly emerging market niche of recreational 4wd's, more suited to the
odd weekend away than punishing long offroad trips or commercial use.
Pictured is a later model
(1990) Australian Bundera, evidence that Toyota toyed with the idea
of continuing marketing the vehicle here. Such vehicles, identifiable
by the square headlights and redesigned bonnet, are fairly rare
locally [au] but were sold in overseas markets up until around 1993.
- Bilbo B' [5/'00]
Toyota Bundera 1984 - 1989
2 door, soft top or
hardtop, 2+3 seats
loa: 346mm, width: 1690mm,
wheelbase: 2310mm (90") track: 1425mm/1420mm, grnd clearance:
230mm turning radius: 6.5m (kerb)
petrol: (RJ70...)
22R 2367cc petrol 4cyls
2-valves/cyl sohc
bore: 92mm, stroke: 89mm,
c.r.: 9.0:1
power: 105 HP at 4800rpm,
torque: 136 Ft-Lb at 2800rpm
diesel: (LJ70...)
2L 2446cc diesel 4cyls
2-valves/cyl sohc
bore: 92mm, stroke: 92mm,
c.r.: 22.3:1
power: 72 HP at 4000rpm,
torque: 115 Ft-Lb at 2200rpm
and
2L-T 2446cc turbo diesel
4cyls 2-valves/cyl sohc
bore: 92mm, stroke: 92mm,
c.r.: 20.0:1
power: 86 HP at 4000rpm,
torque: 139 Ft-Lb at 2400rpm
transmission: 5m (G52 or
R150F in turbo model) gearbox, part-time 4WD, 2-speed transfer case.
suspension:
live-coil/live-coil, brakes: disc/drum
tyres: 7.50R16 or
265/65r15, fuel-tank: 90L
Note: dimensions given for
hard-top.
Competition: Nissan GQ
SWB, Daihatsu Rocky, Mitsubishi Pajero or Holden Jackaroo SWB
Go to the 70-series and
Toyota (main) page
Some other resources, if
you are interested in researching the Landcruiser further, are:
http://www1.toyota.com/landcruiser/
(Toyota Webpage)
http://www.tlca.org/
(Toyota Landcruiser Association)
http://www.cruizers.com/
(All Landcruiser Sales & Info)
http://www.suv.com/toyota/landcruisers/
(SUV Online’s links to Landcruiser Parts & Other
Information)
http://www.autoweb.com.au/start_135/showall_/id_TOY/doc_toy9803261/article.html
(Autoweb article on new landcruisers)
http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/newtrucks/2000/toyota/landcruiser/base.html#specs
(Edmund’s Landcruiser Page)
http://www.nrma.com.au/Page/Public?PageId=CTToyotaLandcruiserApr98P
(Landcruiser Crash Test Data – note this was conducted on the
Australian version, without airbags)
http://www.crashtest.com/toyota_truck/index.htm
(crashtest data on
Landcruisers)
http://carpoint.msn.com/Vip/Safety/Toyota/Land%20Cruiser/2000.asp
